To remove.. or not to remove and replace the fuel strainer?

[Glassmuseum]

I was troubleshooting my 1986 turbo gas gauge issue and when I pulled the fuel sender out, it was covered in rust and there’s a good amount of build up in the bottom of the fuel tank. So I’ll obviously be replacing that because it’s just too far gone. I’m also going to drain the tank with a transfer pump because I’ve got quite a bit of fuel in there and try to get those bits out (not with a shop vac! ). I may use some sort of Venturi air compressor vacuum though and also try to wipe out with carb cleaner what I can from the top and flush it. Please let me know if anyone has any good tips, considerations etc on this doing it from the top most mostly.

Question about the strainer.. I’m curious about other folks’ experience with this. I’m very seriously considering replacing the strainer as well, but I’ve read the horror stories of the whole thing coming out and having to resort to JB well or some insert from 928srus. I’m wondering if anyone has any firsthand experience on this, your thoughts, what happened and any additional tips? Can you get some penetrating oil in there from the inside? I did read that someone successfully used a hose clamp around the sleeve to keep that sleeve from stripping out and separating. it seems like I read more failure attempts than anything. It was hard to tell, but it looked like the strainer screen was not intact from what I could see from the sender opening. on the flip side of this I’m wondering what harm it would be to put this off for a little bit after getting the fuel tank completely cleaned out, replacing the fuel filter and also cleaning out my fuel pump. I’m already planning on replacing the fuel filter at least another time after this as well.

[barnwerks]

I have far more experience with fuel strainer removal and slipped inserts than I would like to remember. My go to plan of attack is this: with a 3/8" battery impact set to loosen, give the strainer 3 or 4 raps, set the gun to tighten and give another 3 or 4 raps and then one more round of raps with it set to loosen. If the strainer didn't move, I switch to cutting tools.
First a holesaw, larger than the hose nipple but that fits inside the outer ring. Cut through the fitting with the holesaw until the center section is separated from the outer section. Next is a hand hacksaw blade, mounted in a holder that allows the blade to project forward from the frame. Make two cuts from the center outward to the threads. I generally make the cuts about 1/2" apart. The goal is to remove the segment between cuts which allows the remainder of the fitting to be flexed inward to break any corrosion bond. While cutting with the hacksaw, listen for the sound to change when the threads of the insert are reached. The insert is made of steel so will feel and sound very different when in contact with the cutting teeth than the diecast aluminum of the strainer. The goal obviously is to minimize cutting the insert.
Note: having the replacement strainer on hand is helpful to understanding where and how far to cut. This process is a little scary the first time but once experienced it is easy and well worth the reduced risk of stripping the bonded insert from the tank bung. Good luck!

[Tom]

Keep in mind there's also a strong self-selection bias going on with all those reports of broken strainers. When they break, people post. There are dozens of posts about cars running hot, but almost none about cars running at the correct temp. Same with strainers -- when they come out with no issues, the owner just moves and never says anything. I've changed them quite a few times and never had one break. So yeah, the risk is real, no doubt, but the internet might make you believe the risk is greater than it really is. And if your tank has rust sediment or other gunk in it like the sender, it sounds like a risk you might have to take...

[Glassmuseum]

I have far more experience with fuel strainer removal and slipped inserts than I would like to remember. My go to plan of attack is this: with a 3/8" battery impact set to loosen, give the strainer 3 or 4 raps, set the gun to tighten and give another 3 or 4 raps and then one more round of raps with it set to loosen. If the strainer didn't move, I switch to cutting tools.
First a holesaw, larger than the hose nipple but that fits inside the outer ring. Cut through the fitting with the holesaw until the center section is separated from the outer section. Next is a hand hacksaw blade, mounted in a holder that allows the blade to project forward from the frame. Make two cuts from the center outward to the threads. I generally make the cuts about 1/2" apart. The goal is to remove the segment between cuts which allows the remainder of the fitting to be flexed inward to break any corrosion bond. While cutting with the hacksaw, listen for the sound to change when the threads of the insert are reached. The insert is made of steel so will feel and sound very different when in contact with the cutting teeth than the diecast aluminum of the strainer. The goal obviously is to minimize cutting the insert.
Note: having the replacement strainer on hand is helpful to understanding where and how far to cut. This process is a little scary the first time but once experienced it is easy and well worth the reduced risk of stripping the bonded insert from the tank bung. Good luck!

Thank you. I have the new one on hand and I just took a look at it to get some reference and it makes sense the steps you laid out. Appreciate it. With your first step using an impact, is that too much toque on it? have you ever just tried a socket first to loosen>tighten>loosen?

[Glassmuseum]

Keep in mind there's also a strong self-selection bias going on with all those reports of broken strainers. When they break, people post. There are dozens of posts about cars running hot, but almost none about cars running at the correct temp. Same with strainers -- when they come out with no issues, the owner just moves and never says anything. I've changed them quite a few times and never had one break. So yeah, the risk is real, no doubt, but the internet might make you believe the risk is greater than it really is. And if your tank has rust sediment or other gunk in it like the sender, it sounds like a risk you might have to take...

Yes! I’ve def thought about this. Absolutely valid and thanks for letting me know you’ve never had it happen. Gives me some hope. Would love to hear more success stories on this if anyone’s else has ‘em!

[barnwerks]

Thank you. I have the new one on hand and I just took a look at it to get some reference and it makes sense the steps you laid out. Appreciate it. With your first step using an impact, is that too much toque on it? have you ever just tried a socket first to loosen>tighten>loosen?

The advantage of using an impact on this, or any fasteners where corrosion may be present in the thread interface, is that the torque is delivered instantly and momentarily. This type of torque application is excellent at shocking rigid connections and is less likely to disrupt a resilient connection like the strainer sleeve captured in soft plastic.

[walfreyydo]

I removed the strainer on my car a few years ago without any issues.

I think it should definitely be checked so that

1) you know its functioning and in good order and
2) its not sending small pieces of disintegrated plastic through your fuel pump and filter if it is bad.

Based on your description of the tank, I would not be surprised if its clogged full of residue or disintegrated, so one way or another it will likely need to be checked and if needed, replaced.

[dr bob]

I removed and replaced the identical fitting in my car relatively painlessly. That said, a couple clinic cars have shown up with leakage. There's a ring gasket where the fitting goes into the tank to do the actual sealing. Roger's (928SRUS) retrofit repair is a good option for situations where the molded-in sleeve has started rotating in the plastic tank nozzle.

The two clinic cars were both repaired with JBWeld, and the repairs are at least a dozen years old now and functioning perfectly. The installation demands some careful prep, and I made a few tools/fixtures to remove the sleeve, and hold the sleeve in place for a day while the epoxy cured completely. Some all-thread and a series of bushings and washers did that duty. I wouldn't be at all afraid to do that again.

----

FWIW, certain 928 years add a small in-tank pre-pump to help solve a known problem with hot fuel in circulating systems, and boiling in the main pump suction. This was a common issue in CIS/K-JET cars, and the in-tank mini pumps were used in most 928 models to end of production. Installation requires a couple different pieces vs. a plain strainer, but adds some safety and security especially for cars driven in hot climates. Worth considering especially if you are running higher horsepower with bigger flow demands. 928SRUS carries all the pieces needed for the upgrade.

[Glassmuseum]

Thank you to everyone here. This forum has been such a great resource and I’m thankful for the guidance.

Update: Got the strainer out! It was completely cooked lol. So I’m glad I bit the bullet. However, it did not come out the old-fashioned way. I want to especially thank the user @barnwerks for the detailed instructions on the holesaw/hacksaw method. I’ve maybe seen this method mentioned a couple of times in other threads, but no detailed instructions on how to do it properly. I followed these instructions, including trying the impact first with a clamp around the collar to try and promote keeping it seated. Didn’t budge. and just like any other time you’re trying to get something knocked loose and you’re in a bind, there is always the urge to break out more tools to try to break it loose, but I resisted and went with the holesaw method and I’m sure glad I did.

I had to first cut down the nipple coming off the strainer to get my holesaw in the right spot in the cavity. I did have to notch the lip outer edge a little bit around the same spot where I cut with the hacksaw. Once I got that section out and gained access to inside the strainer, I cut two slits as mentioned from user about half an inch apart. I sprayed some kroil in those grooves let it sit for about 20 minutes and was able to carefully pry out with a screwdriver that section. once that was out, I sprayed more kroil around the outer edge that was still remaining and took a pair of large channel locks, and very carefully squeezed the remaining lip and it just cracked and separated and came right out. I did end up notching a little bit of a groove in the insert threads with the hacksaw, but the threads luckily held up beautifully, and there are no leaks. So I would just say be careful to not go too far and take it slow when cutting the slot. I just kept cleaning it out with an angled pick and kroil to check the cut.

I attached some pics here, hoping it will help others if they decide to go this route. And in all honesty, I kind of recommend just doing this if you’re unsure and it does not break loose without a medium amount of effort. It was a little scary, but also was not all that bad and I’m just very happy that it worked out and I’m not having go to a Plan B or C. Again, I really appreciate @barnwerks and maybe this will help someone down the road as well. Also I have a nice clean tank and sending unit without rust! I do still have a gauge issue where it seems like when the sending unit is at full, it shows a little bit above 3/4 of a tank. Better than it was, but Ggonna pull the cluster and clean the contacts and see if that fixes it, but overall a win I would say.

[soxnail]

Just got done removing my car's strainer, took a little pb blaster and a lot of patience. Used the rattle gun 3 or 4 open direction then 3 or 4 close direction. More pb and wait then repeat, after the 6th time it moved. Then it was easy. It did not have any debris or rust in it, just looked stained. Not bad after 40 years Question should I consider doing a tank flush, if so any recommended products, procedures.
Thx
Ps. Waiting for the new one to come in.
Sox