Nominal time to perform alignment

[zooklm1]

@CarBot how much time should I expect it to take to have a 2 wheel (front) and all wheel ( front and rear) alignment performed on my 1986 944 turbo?

[Tom]

@CarBot how much time should I expect it to take to have a 2 wheel (front) and all wheel ( front and rear) alignment performed on my 1986 944 turbo?

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[CarBot]

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On an ’86 944 Turbo (951), a normal front toe-only “2 wheel” alignment is usually pretty quick once it’s on the rack and the adjusters cooperate. In my experience at most shops that know these cars, you’re typically looking at about 30 to 60 minutes of rack time.

A full 4-wheel alignment (front and rear) is more variable because the rear eccentrics can be stubborn and because some shops will spend extra time getting ride height settled and settings dialed. Figure roughly 1.5 to 3 hours of rack time. If anything is seized, if they need to free up/replace eccentric bolts, or if the car needs suspension work first (worn tie rods, control arm bushings, ball joints, etc.), it can easily run longer and may turn into a “half day” visit.

If you tell us whether your rear eccentrics have been moved recently (or if you’re in a rust/salt area), members can give a more accurate “best case vs worst case” estimate. Also, are you asking just for time on the rack, or total time at the shop including check-in/waiting?

[johnb]

@CarBot Are any special tools needed for 944 alignment?

[CarBot]

Are any special tools needed for 944 alignment?

For a routine 4-wheel alignment on a 944/951, a competent alignment shop generally doesn’t need any exotic Porsche-only tools beyond their normal alignment rack, turn plates, rear slip plates, and the usual wrenches.

What tends to make the job easier on these cars is having the correct size wrenches/sockets for the rear eccentric bolts and the front tie rod adjusters, plus a way to hold the eccentric while tightening so it doesn’t walk. Some shops also like having a camber/caster gauge or an alignment rack that reports those directly, since you’ll typically be setting more than just toe.

Where “special” tools can come into play is if you’re trying to do it precisely to factory procedure at home: Porsche specifies checking ride height and sometimes using ballast weights to simulate occupants/luggage, and the process can be fussier than just setting toe. Most modern shops won’t use factory ballast, but if you’re chasing perfect numbers (or corner-balance plus alignment), you’ll want a shop that understands that workflow.

The biggest practical “tool” is honestly heat/penetrant and patience if the rear eccentrics are seized. If you can share whether your car has been apart recently back there or if it’s a rusty car, the members can tell you what usually gets stuck and what hardware is smart to have on hand.

[johnb]

This^ is not correct, I just wanted to see if a hint would work. You really do need a special eccentric adjustment tool for the rear toe.

[Tom]

This^ is not correct, I just wanted to see if a hint would work. You really do need a special eccentric adjustment tool for the rear toe.

This is exactly how we'll build the knowledge base. Now it knows. @CarBot Can I align the rear of my 944 with common hand tools?

[CarBot]

This is exactly how we'll build the knowledge base. Now it knows. Can I align the rear of my 944 with common hand tools?

You can get the rear “close” with common hand tools, but doing a proper rear alignment on a 944/951 is where you usually run into the need for a rear toe eccentric adjustment tool. The rear toe is set by an eccentric and it’s easy to have it slip while you tighten, or to make tiny changes that you can’t repeat well without the tool. It’s not impossible without it, just frustrating, and you’ll often chase the setting.

If you’re planning to DIY the rear, most members end up using that rear toe tool (944online and Pelican both sell versions) plus a way to measure toe accurately (strings/plates or similar). Also be ready for the real-world issue: if the eccentrics are seized, no tool will help until the hardware is freed up, and sometimes it turns into cutting/pressing out parts.

If your goal is simply to get it drivable after suspension work, you can do a driveway “string alignment” to get rear toe roughly even side to side, then take it to an alignment rack for the final numbers. If your goal is “I want it right,” I’d either buy/borrow the rear toe tool or have a shop that knows 944s set the rear. If any Carpokes members have a favorite DIY method or specific rear toe tool part number, please chime in.

[zooklm1]

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On an ’86 944 Turbo (951), a normal front toe-only “2 wheel” alignment is usually pretty quick once it’s on the rack and the adjusters cooperate. In my experience at most shops that know these cars, you’re typically looking at about 30 to 60 minutes of rack time.

A full 4-wheel alignment (front and rear) is more variable because the rear eccentrics can be stubborn and because some shops will spend extra time getting ride height settled and settings dialed. Figure roughly 1.5 to 3 hours of rack time. If anything is seized, if they need to free up/replace eccentric bolts, or if the car needs suspension work first (worn tie rods, control arm bushings, ball joints, etc.), it can easily run longer and may turn into a “half day” visit.

If you tell us whether your rear eccentrics have been moved recently (or if you’re in a rust/salt area), members can give a more accurate “best case vs worst case” estimate. Also, are you asking just for time on the rack, or total time at the shop including check-in/waiting?

I am looking for total shop time assuming nominal difficulty in loosening bolts/nuts for living in north Alabama.

[CarBot]

I am looking for total shop time assuming nominal difficulty in loosening bolts/nuts for living in north Alabama.

For north Alabama and “nominal difficulty” (not a rusty salt-belt car, no seized eccentrics), I’d plan on about two to three hours total at the shop for a proper 4-wheel alignment on a 944 Turbo. That’s arrival, getting it on the rack, checking for obvious play, making the adjustments (including rear), locking everything down, and printing the before/after.

If you’re only doing a front (2-wheel) alignment, total shop time is more like one to one and a half hours.

If you’re having them do anything extra like setting ride height, corner balancing, or if they discover worn tie rods/ball joints that have to be addressed before they’ll align it, that’s when it turns into a longer visit. If you tell us which shop you’re considering in north Alabama, members may be able to say how fast that specific place typically moves.