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1988 928S4 Manual
Hello Pokes!
I just acquired this 928 and started with fluid changes and went to the shifter couplings as the shifting was quite poor. I was able to get the rear done even though the conical screw was a beast..
I have taken off the exhaust/heat shields/cross member and taken off the old coupler that was without any bushing inside.
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Initially I was going to replace the old housing with a new (white) insert, but then also bought the new Porsche angular joint 928-424-005-01.
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I placed it back to the same number of turns back in.
the problem I am having is getting the thing to pop back on..
in my searches I found that people have used a "Stanley wrecking bar" , ratchet straps, freezing the coupling before, or screwdrivers /pry bars...
I am in the northeast so I figured the garage is already pretty darn cold... but maybe ill try this on the next one..
I was able to get it pretty close with the ratchet strap with a wood block under the torque tube, but would always slide a bit to the side... I had the shifter connected to reduce play..
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but after some spirited ratcheting I even noticed the coupling was becoming bent...
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Any other tips/recs/pics /videos would be greatly appreciated... I have searched extensively but wanted to see if anyone here has some insight...
thanks
Kevin
Sorry for not being on late last evening. I have another small project, and needed a full unwind before I went to bed.
Good on you for grabbing a good S4 manual. You'll thoroughly enjoy it I'm sure!
The shifter ball cup options are a bit limited. The best method I've seen is with a webbed strap with a bar through it. Then twist to tighten. Lubricate The Cup so it will slide over the ball. A decent waterproof high-temp grease, maybe boat trailer bearing grease, Just enough, not so much that there's a hydraulic lock as you try to stuff the ball in there. A couple loops with the strap, and OK to loop over the stud just behind the cup. You can spray the area with WD40 so the strap slides around the torque tube as you tighten. You'll know when it finally pops onto the ball.
I've used a bit of sacrificial lifting-sling strap. Whatever you use, the knots will be so tight you won't get them open again.
Pipefitters use a c-clamp with steel angle that might work if the motor mounts are still collapsed. But the strap has always worked for me.
Thanks Dr Bob for the reply!
so this is what I have available...
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this the grease I tried on first few attempts before bending the first purchased cup..
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Just so I am in full understanding: I should wrap the strap twice around the torque tube/ball cup, tie a knot and using say a rebar twist to tighten the strap with hopes it gives downward force to pop that cap on?
When I tried with the ratchet straps the cup would slide to the side that way... I suppose the ratcheting might not put straight downward pressure?
I've only done a couple of these on clinic cars, so recognize it's been a while and not many of them. I used a web strap similar to what you show but probably smaller. About 2" across, looking at the piece that's still in the special-tools box. It was wrapped twice, and both loops took a 3' long bar I have for the twisting part. I have a lift, so the car is up high enough for a second pair of hands to do the twisting with the bar.
Were I trying this today, I'd dig into my tie-down straps collection and use one with the D-ring fittings. Then a block brace under the front of the tube, that 3' bar on the brace and through the rings, and a pull straight down would set the cup on the ball. Absent the strap, use the webbing you have wrapped around the tube and knotted snug under the torque tube. Use a piece of 2x4 (or larger) lumber at the bellhousing flange for the block brace for your bar, with the bar passed through the loops of webbing. Then pull straight down on the rear end of the bar for the leverage.
I have 3' and a 5' long "demolition" bars, either is much more suited to the duty than a piece of rebar you suggest. Unless/until you get up to 1" rebar maybe, and even then rebar is intended to be bendable.
Folks have used rope for this too.
Were I doing this regularly working single-handed, I'd be tempted to fab a pad with chain slots on either side, and use the Porta-Power between the tube and pad, with a loop of chain around the tube and over the cup fitting.
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For Folks Playing Along At Home...
The manual gearbox shift linkage relies on a rod going forward from the base of the shift lever to this forward pivot point. There's a ball stud mounted on top of the torque tube, very similar to the way a clutch release fork pivots. With torque tube tucked up in the tub tunnel, there's not a lot of room to use a clamp or anything more than an inch or so above the ball stud. Fresh motor and gearbox mounts hold the drive unit and torque tube up higher, suggesting that the shift rod work is best done before replacing the motor mounts, especially if you choose to use the slightly-taller aftermarket versions. Space is precious, both for access on top of the torque tube and room to work with the bar underneath.
My car is in winter hibernation storage right now, perched high on 6T safety stands, with the jack pads almost 30" off the floor. It's an OK work height, just barely low enough to work on your back on a rolling creeper, just barely high enough to get real pull downward on a bar if you try that method. I think that's why many are installed using the twisted-strap or -rope methods.
That high on the stands presents another often-forgotten risk, and that's the reduced horizontal force needed to roll the car off the stands. I did the calcs once for another discussion, and remember a seemingly absurdly low number like 200 lbs. directly lateral or longitudinal. It's only slightly more diagonal, thanks to the square footprint of the stand bases. We moved from earthquake-prone SoCal to central Oregon, and worry little about the ground here moving enough to spill the car off the stands. In Cali, the thought is always in the back of your head even with the car raised "safely" on the two-post lift. There's this very good reason why four-post lifts are more popular for live-on situations like vehicle storage in California.
Yes !!!!
Finally got it !!!
I think most problems I was having were as I needed to really position and then tighten down the lock nut on the angular joint… when it wasn’t positioned correctly or tightened when ratcheting the cup would turn and slip…
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The D ring axle strap recommendation I think helped greatly too. When I tried without it I think the ratchet strap caused more twisting (it could have been just in my mind ). But I also realized I would not have been able to slip out the ratchet straps like the d ring strap was able to slip over the guide tube.
I tried with the long wrecking bar 4ft but it was harder for me to get a feel of if I was on the right track. The ratchet strap with checking with an endoscope to confirm the position of the cup at least helped me see if I was on the right track.
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This was my setup that worked for me :
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I ended up doing it without grease, in my mind it caused more slippage but who knows.
In the end I think as I mentioned above just having it lined up and tightened down so the cup would not turn more with ratcheting pressure was the key for me.
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Great thanks for all that reached out, especially drbob. This one was really driving me crazy. Now to put out everything back together. The next thing on the agenda is transmission fluid change. Then timing belt change …. Internal door hinge is looming as well.
I'm sure he'll come to the rescue shortly... 