Power Windows Don't Work
When I got this car, the windows would go up and down about half the time. One day I put the driver window down like normal and it absolutely would not go up. It took me about an hour of fiddling but I finally got it to go back up again. Now it doesn't work at all but nothing seems to have changed. I want to troubleshoot this but I'm trying to figure out which of these wires I can jump to bypass the switch, that way I can figure out if it's a bad switch or not. Do you know which wires?
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To jump the motor, find the two thick wires in the switch connector. Touch one to power and the other to ground. The window should move. Swap the wires to reverse direction. If it works, the switch is bad.
There are only these blue and red wires going into the switch connector as you can see there. Neither of them are thicker than the others. I also can't see which wires go to which holes there but the holes are labelled with letters. Do you know which letters I need to probe?Evan wrote: Tue Oct 07, 2025 7:09 pm To jump the motor, find the two thick wires in the switch connector. Touch one to power and the other to ground. The window should move. Swap the wires to reverse direction. If it works, the switch is bad.
I drive fancy cars on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/@Autoism1
Check for labels like L, COM, or P for power. The other side might have 1, 2, L1, L2, or A, B for the lights. Probe the one marked L or COM first.Deemar wrote: Tue Oct 07, 2025 7:14 pmThere are only these blue and red wires going into the switch connector as you can see there. Neither of them are thicker than the others. I also can't see which wires go to which holes there but the holes are labelled with letters. Do you know which letters I need to probe?Evan wrote: Tue Oct 07, 2025 7:09 pm To jump the motor, find the two thick wires in the switch connector. Touch one to power and the other to ground. The window should move. Swap the wires to reverse direction. If it works, the switch is bad.
I should add that none of the switches work, all 3 are non-responsive. I tried swapping in the other 2 to the driver side and neither of them worked in the driver side neither.
I'm not sure if I'm asking the correct question here but I should be able to stick a wire into 2 holes in this plug behind the window switch and I can't figure out how it hasn't been answered here yet. Connecting 2 of the holes should make the window go up and 2 should make it go down. I'm about to go outside and start probing random holes.
Does anyone know which 2 are motor and which one is ground?
I'm not sure if I'm asking the correct question here but I should be able to stick a wire into 2 holes in this plug behind the window switch and I can't figure out how it hasn't been answered here yet. Connecting 2 of the holes should make the window go up and 2 should make it go down. I'm about to go outside and start probing random holes.
Does anyone know which 2 are motor and which one is ground?
I drive fancy cars on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/@Autoism1
What year is your car? For early cars, you should have 12V on D and E (given nothing works, I suspect your car doesn't.) A and B go to the motor. C is ground. It is probably the same on late cars, but with model year we can check the schematic for wire colors.
Early cars have a relay under the dash clipped to the hvac system (IIRC,) in late cars this is moved to location G7. This relay supplies power to the windows when the ignition is on.
Early cars have a relay under the dash clipped to the hvac system (IIRC,) in late cars this is moved to location G7. This relay supplies power to the windows when the ignition is on.
Thank you, this solved my problem. I checked these ports in the switch connectors and none of them had power. I looked under the dash, pulled fuse 8 (power windows) from the upper bank under the dash and saw that it was broken. I pulled fuse 6 (air conditioning) which is also 25 amps, placed it into slot 8 and the driver window worked perfectly.944er wrote: Thu Oct 09, 2025 7:26 am What year is your car? For early cars, you should have 12V on D and E (given nothing works, I suspect your car doesn't.) A and B go to the motor. C is ground. It is probably the same on late cars, but with model year we can check the schematic for wire colors.
Early cars have a relay under the dash clipped to the hvac system (IIRC,) in late cars this is moved to location G7. This relay supplies power to the windows when the ignition is on.
The passenger side switches still did not work but after pulling them and cleaning up the internals, they now work fine as well. Thank you.
I'm going to have to order some of these from Amazon.
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