Microsquirt file review

[Drscottsmith]

All -

Tom suggested making a dedicated thread for this.

I would appreciate any microsquirters that could review these logs and my tube and offer feedback.
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Drscottsmith wrote:
Ok - thanks to Tom for helping get the file types set to be able to upload. I hope more will now be able to share their logs and we can help each other out.

Ok so here is what I have

1. my current tune (.msq) file
2. idle only getting up to temp
3. revving engine to about 4K but sitting still
4. Moving back and forth in driveway to get under "load"
5. A drive around the neighborhood

Looking forward to hearing everyone's comments! Files in next post.

-scott

[Drscottsmith]

Files.

[Drscottsmith]

Here are two updated maps - I had forgotten to reset my AFR table when I got the new gauge. Latest Tune and idle as well as short drive attached.

Still getting an oil leak on exhaust from somewhere. UGH!

[walfreyydo]

I can take a look as soon as I can and offer any feedback.

Did you already run autotune and get your VE table setup against your target AFR's?
You said you had the car out driving-how does it run?

A datalog is also helpful but not required.

[Drscottsmith]

Thanks Walfreydo - I definitely appreciate your time!

There should be two megalog files in the second batch as well as the current version of the tune (.msq) file.

I did some driving yesterday and ran autotune and saved that data to the controller, so I believe if I understand the process correctly that it would have been updated. Those two logs were done after those changes were recorded.

I am going to have to make some other adjustments as I realized today that I still had the ICV pipe plugged and not connected to the throttle body as I was working on getting the ICV to work correctly. The settings for ICV in TS are off right now, but the ICV defaults to open, so it was revving very high at idle. Once I get that working again it will have to be redone. I believe having that line plugged (to keep the idle valve from letting air in actually kept ALL of the air in and was causing my oil leaks through excessive pressure.

[walfreyydo]

I took a look at the latest posted tune and log and overall it looks pretty good. Note that I am not a tuning expert, just someone who has managed to tune their own car (and get it running decently?) through trial and lots of reading. A couple things I noticed:

Over run fuel cutoff is currently off. I run with this on, but I think its optional. If you are getting a lot of backfiring on decel, this might help (adding timing will also help). Here are my settings



Ego control is set to off with 0.1% increments. I see in the log this is only adding about 102% fuel or removing 4.5%. I have mine set to Single Wide Band with as much as 10% fuel (controller auth) to add or remove per step (8 ignition cycles). My PID settings may need tweaking as I haven't played with it much. This can help keep your actual and target AFRs closer together.


Fuel/afr/ignition tables look right and are smoothed nicely (there is a high outlier spot in the fuel table but assume its ok).

Are you having any drivability issues or anything in general of concern on your current tune?

[walfreyydo]

In terms of the ICV, I have an S2 which I think uses a different type of ICV than the turbo (but not sure). My car is still running in open loop idle, which works well enough, but ideally would like to get it configured in closed loop (easier said than done).

With open loop you should be able to configure your ICV to open different amounts at different temps. I am not sure what type of ICV the turbos have, but it might be able to be configured similarly using PWM. If I had to guess its either an "on/off" valve or a PWM valve (similar to what the S/S2 has). If PWM, youll also need to set the frequency (I think its 100hz for most Bosch valves) but in Tuner Studio youll have to use 92hz.

You can configure that under the "Idle Control" settings (open loop or closed) and also control the amount that the valve opens (based on coolant temp) under "Idle Warmup Duty Steps". I have mine set so on cold startup my idle is around 1500 rpm and then slowly decreases to about 1000 rpm when I hit around 160F coolant temp (this is about 52% open in my settings). I just set my percentage to whatever is needed to hit those target rpms.

Here is a good video that I used to set mine up (Turbine Research has been a great resource)

[Drscottsmith]

Thanks so much!

Not really much in the way of drivability other than a slight stumble when revving off idle (regardless of under load or not).

I just am looking for assurance that I am not doing stupid things! This is a fresh engine rebuild as well as a ecu swap so there is a lot running through my mind!

[walfreyydo]

The stumbling might be your accel enrichment. I see you have the minimum set to around 200 tps dot. I have mine set to kick in at 50 tps dot, and zero accel enrichment below that. It might be that you are leaning out when doing small stabs of the throttle below 200 tps dot. 50 tps dot for me is like when I am giving it a little bit of throttle when letting out the clutch from a stop, for instance.

Setting up accel enrichment is very much based on feel. Stab the throttle at a certain tps dot (watching the realtime tpsdot value in the accel enrich graph) and adjust fuel up or down - youll feel when its "right" - the car will be responsive and crisp. Then stab the throttle a little more and repeat until you get to where you are going from zero tps to flooring it (such as in an autox/race situation) and getting into very high tps dot levels. At higher RPM you dont really need any accel enrichment (I think mine tapers off at 5k rpm)

Besides accel enrichment advice above the biggest thing is to keep an eye on your AFR's making sure you dont go lean under boost/load. Review your logs as well to keep an eye on this. You can also setup your knock sensor for additional security around ignition timing, which will dial back timing if you start pinging. Overall just keep researching and tweaking your tune! I think you are off to a great start.

Eventually, if the car is running fairly well, you'll probably want to get the car on a dyno and get it professionally tuned if you want to maximize power. They may even be able to help you tweak the tune to get the best drivability as well (accel enrich plays a huge factor in this).

[944m3]

Don’t know if Microsquirt has this feature, but on my MaxxECU I used the “lock ignition timing at idle” feature. Basically during idle the ECU uses a different ignition map/table, meaning it’s using 2 different ignition maps just like stock ecu does. I used the exact ignition timing and RPM as the stock table found on Rogue’s website. My car now idles exactly like stock down to 850 RPM at 4 degrees BTDC, with lowest setting at 26 degrees below 600 RPM I believe. This solved about 90% of my stumbles and RPM dips. I did play with acceleration enrichment as well. I’m using closed loop idle. I’m sure I can improve on everything but the car is running great so far.

And I’m with you on being scared to do something dumb. I’ve set a boost cut limit at 170kpa as a safety net. Need to do some more logging and long runs to dial in my VE table. Actually having fun with it.