3D Printed 944 Wiper Linkage Grommets

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usury
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One day last fall, my driver's side (US) windshield wiper arm stopped moving (Late 944). This is annoying in the Pacific Northwest.

I was able to pop it back into place, as described in Windshield Linkage Problem. It has fallen off multiple times since then.

The nearly 40 year old rubber grommets at each end of the wiper linkage arm are rock hard and no longer able to conform to the metal parts of the mechanism. Of course, the real solution is to buy a new linkage arm, available via this link from 944Online.

However, I've been using money to fix 944 problems for ever and ever. It gets frustrating, let's just say.

Instead, I have a 3D printer.

Yesterday, I dusted off my CAD modeling and my 3D printing skills. Hopefully this solution is reasonably permanent. If not, it's like 10¢ worth of plastic.

Wiper Linkage Grommets v03.zip
  • "Outboard.stl" is the capped-bottom grommet closest to the outside of the car that connects to the wiper arm itself
  • "Inboard.stl" is the hollow-in-the-center grommet closest to the middle of the car that connects to the motor. (Maybe it's the motor - I couldn't really see under there.)
  • At least that's accurate for left-hand-drive late 944's
Grommets in Action.gif
20240801_125034-COLLAGE.jpg

Printed in TPU 98A
  • TPU is flexible material, bigger numbers are less elastic - it needs to be rather stiff
  • perimeters: 3
  • solid top/bottom layers: 4
  • top/bottom fill pattern: concentric (looks nice on round things)
  • 50% gyroid infill, 0mm² threshold
  • 0.2mm layer height with 0.32mm extrusion width using a 0.4mm nozzle
  • 220°C nozzle, 75°C bed, in a zipper enclosure that easily maintained a 40°C chamber
  • 25mm/s print speed with max 40% fan speed
Honestly, other than the slower speeds, slightly higher temps, and reduced cooling fan speeds, it wasn't any more difficult to print than PLA on my direct-drive Anycubic Kobra Neo (Ender 3 clone). This TPU did seem to enjoy having a warmer chamber - surface finish was much nicer. With this particular part, two perimeter walls produced a part that was too flimsy and prone to tearing when installing it.


How To Guide
For more pictures and a guide for how to remove/replace the grommets and the wiper arm linkage, see This Post. It also provides post-printing prep of the produced parts. Some brief notes:
  • Don't install them upside down!
  • Gentle application of heat from a heat gun and your favorite blunt screw driver ought to be enough to install the replacement grommets into the linkage arm
  • Use a bench vise or something similar to hold the linkage arm so you don't slip and stab yourself with your favorite blunt screwdriver
As you can see from the slicer (colorful) and CAD (gray) images above, I generated STL's that have a single-wall-thickness perimeter supporting the gap. Even without that single outer wall (which must be manually removed), your slicer would have happily omitted any other supports. However, the TPU didn't like unsupported overhangs, which resulted in an ugly part. So, the single-wall perimeter that I cut out with a razor knife was a simple solution that works fine.

20240801_121815-COLLAGE.jpg
20240801_125004-COLLAGE.jpg
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Freelance New Age Renaissance Man
and Wrench Warrior
1987 944na with S2/Turbo facelift
Seattle, Washington, USA

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