My fuel pressure regulator fuel line nuts are seized and will not budge. I have the blower motor, its air shrouds out, and the three DME sensor plugs & bracket out of the way too. I have been soaking them in PB blaster and tapping them for a few days now. I have flared crow's feet & flare nut wrenches, and have applied quite a bit of force, but no movement.
- Is Kroil that much better of a penetrant than PB blaster as some have mentioned?
-In worst case scenario that these nuts will not move or round off, can one cut at the hoses and join the fuel lines another way?
I am pretty sure this is the original FPR from the factory.
Fuel Line Nuts Seized on 1986 Carrerra 3.2
-
Tom
- Site Admin
- Posts: 8935
- Joined: Fri Jun 25, 2021 2:04 pm
- Location: Silicon Valley, CA
- Has thanked: 933 times
- Been thanked: 4002 times
- Contact:
Everyone seems to swear by their own penetrating oil, and Kroil has a cult following, so I guess it's possible that Kroil will break something free that PB Blaster doesn't. On the other hand, I'm a cynic and suspect the odds are pretty low it will make a big difference. On the third hand, you can get it on Amazon for ~$20, so not huge gamble (and it smells better than PB Blaster). Liquid Wrench is pretty good too.
My suspicion is that you are just not getting enough pressure on the wrenches due to tight spaces, etc. My go-to trick in those situations is to use a shade-tree impact wrench -- i.e., put an open end or flare nut wrench on the nut/bolt, counter hold if possible, and then bang on the wrench with a hammer. I typically just use a regular wrench and wear eye protection in case it shatters, but they do sell "slug-wrenches" or "striking wrenches" designed for exactly this purpose. I've been amazed how well they can work on fasteners that seems impossible to remove by hand. They even sell non-sparking versions for use around leaking fuel.
Now, the important part: if the regulator is original, then the rubber fuel lines are probably original too. If so, it's time to replace them! After 37 or 38 years, they become a real fire risk. For the same reason, I would not try to cut a 37-year-old rubber hose and couple it to a new house with clamps. Just asking for trouble in my opinion. Easy for me to spend your time and money I know, but a leaking fuel line can be a true disaster.
My suspicion is that you are just not getting enough pressure on the wrenches due to tight spaces, etc. My go-to trick in those situations is to use a shade-tree impact wrench -- i.e., put an open end or flare nut wrench on the nut/bolt, counter hold if possible, and then bang on the wrench with a hammer. I typically just use a regular wrench and wear eye protection in case it shatters, but they do sell "slug-wrenches" or "striking wrenches" designed for exactly this purpose. I've been amazed how well they can work on fasteners that seems impossible to remove by hand. They even sell non-sparking versions for use around leaking fuel.
Now, the important part: if the regulator is original, then the rubber fuel lines are probably original too. If so, it's time to replace them! After 37 or 38 years, they become a real fire risk. For the same reason, I would not try to cut a 37-year-old rubber hose and couple it to a new house with clamps. Just asking for trouble in my opinion. Easy for me to spend your time and money I know, but a leaking fuel line can be a true disaster.
I agree, it is best to replace the engine fuel lines. You may take them to a napa store and have the rubber lines removed and new ones installed and crimped on to the fittings, if you don't want to buy all new lines.
Cheers
Engelbert
Cheers
Engelbert
LED lights for classic Porsches http://carmagic.us/
-
88carrera911
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Tue Sep 26, 2023 7:58 pm
Yes, those are a PITA to do. I have the engine out of my '88 and they are still tough to budge. I strongly suggest replace that line that connects the regulator to the damper since it's known to fail. One tip is the partially drop the engine which makes it a lot easier to access. I did that a few years ago when I replaced the line between the regulator and damper without actually dropping the engine. You also may want to replace the large T/J shaped line but that is a LOT more work...still, if it springs a leak it's a potential disaster. There are some very well made alternatives, i.e. Mason Engineering, that are much easier to use. Len Cummings also makes a rebuilt version that is much easier to put back in.
-
marin
- Posts: 78
- Joined: Sun May 07, 2023 12:06 pm
- Location: California
- Has thanked: 15 times
- Been thanked: 51 times
Are you use 2 flare nut wrenches? One on the female end and one on the male end? Have the gap between wrenches close together, and then grip them tight to closed the last inch of gap. That plus some penetrating oil should snap them open? ...those lines can be a pain.
-
Greg Greer
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Thu Aug 04, 2022 5:17 pm
- Has thanked: 1 time
Hi Marin,
Yes, you are right flare nut wrenches were a god send for this job. After about two weeks of penetrating oils and pecking on those flare nuts, and then one day presto! The flare nuts turned. I appreciate everyone's advice. I really could not maintain these cars without all the knowledge on these forums. Currently, my cars and myself are hulled up for winter. I hope all is well out there in that California sun!
Yes, you are right flare nut wrenches were a god send for this job. After about two weeks of penetrating oils and pecking on those flare nuts, and then one day presto! The flare nuts turned. I appreciate everyone's advice. I really could not maintain these cars without all the knowledge on these forums. Currently, my cars and myself are hulled up for winter. I hope all is well out there in that California sun!