Engine start after sitting a few years 84 3.2

[Jdhiker]

006F0A52-0EC7-4072-BCE1-6F9E196B870B.jpeg (3 MiB) Viewed 1065 times

I have inherited my FIL’s 84 Targa 3.2.
It sat in a garage not run for about 2 years
I turned it over just to make sure it still would turn and it started but with a hiss sounded like air in the strokes almost like a missfire. Hard to explain. I didn’t continue letting it run.
Wasn’t smooth. I didn’t also want to run it due to the oil sitting in just the sump. How quick does it get to everything to protect. Do you bump it many times to get the oil up? I mean I’m sure people just start their 911’s after sitting all winter
Could it be vacuum leak from a hose? Maybe mouse chewed through? I just hope not a stuck valve or something. I’ve a valve sticks on the 3.2 will it hit the piston? There was no sound like that just the hiss and rough run in the short time i let it.

[german1985]

1. good idea to change the oil before the next start ie 11 qts. so be sure to have a 911 size drain pan - drain both the crank case plug and the oil tank plug - both plugs require a new compression washer before retorquing.
a. standard procedure is to change/drain oil from a warmed up engine, BUT in this case that is not possible so just
drain and refill with 10 quarts.
b. When the engine is up and running you check the oil - WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING - oil tank dip stick should read
oil level 1/2 between the adding and full marks.
2. This era engine benefits from high zddp oil - 20W-50 - check internet sources - also contact:
Charles Navarro L N Engineering (815) 472-2939 [email protected] to access quality zddp oil.
3. How full is the gas tank? old gas does not burn well; so fill the tank with fresh gasoline to dilute the 2 year old gas. A
container of "Techroline" added to this now full tank is a good idea.
3. After the above and the engine is running, inspect the engine compartment without touching anything - ie from a sound
standpoint to determine where the hiss is comming from.
4. If rodents have made their home there ie chewed through air intake components then a complete inspection of the
intake air box and filter component is needed to look for leaks in the intake path.
5. There is also a small SS colored motor/cylinder, mounted horizontally above the fan housing that actuates and is
involved in engine startup and running - hose attached as an input into air intake as the motor regulates.
engine star-up fuel air mixture.
6. Great sign that the engine stared after 2 years without any of the above steps taken before. I suspect you have a
great car with a small problem to diagnose and repair = NO Fingers or HANDS - inspecting engine parts when the
engine is running!!!!!!
7. I have owned a 1985 of this model since new - 198,652 miles and just now getting broken in good.
8. Your Father has given you a gift of a LIFETIME!!!!!

[Jdhiker]

My last 911 was sold 22 years ago. A 69 t. I miss it. So happy to have this completely rust free gem.
I’m good with the No fingers and hands with these engines. I have pulled my 69T engine a few times so I’m with some knowledge.
This being the fuel injection and newer I know I have a lot to learn. Great bullet points I will definitely use your list
Yeah pretty happy it started. Will change the oil for sure and do a thorough check of hoses and such. I’m hoping next time I do start it Thea once the oil is up and it warms up it will smooth out.
Adding to the fuel and treating it is a must for sure.
Thanks for the points.

[german1985]

Please let me know you major points of progress and what you corrected to get this GEM up and running down the roads and interstates !!!
Best Wishes,
Greg

[german1985]

This is the incredible Metzger engine - the engineering and reliability is beyond imagination for its time and truly into the present. Bruce Anderson said this engine, with proper maintenance and oil changes, would run at performance levels to 400,000 miles - think about it 400,000 miles!
The operative point in this exchange is that the 3.2 Metzger has a crankcase/sump oil scavenger to keep the crank case free of oil to eliminate "windage", BUT MOST importantly has another oil pump to lube the engine parts and Cylinder squirt walls from the first rotation of engine startup - no warm up to lubrication on this beauty!

[Tom]

Welcome to carpokes both of you! Hard to add anything to that list. Once it's running, be sure to check the brakes and steering before going too far, and go over the fuel lines for any leaks or risks thereof. I had an '85 back in the day and sure wish I never sold it... Awesome cars!

Please post pictures of the car if you can Here is a guide showing how to add pictures to posts here:

viewtopic.php?t=410

[Jdhiker]

Thanks for having me. I love this place already. Alway nice to have a spot to chat.
Will send pics soon

[german1985]

Tom,
Two points: = one question - one comment /proof;
1.On my 1985 3.2 Carrera where do I go to inspect fuel lines for service/replacement? Aren't these steel lines? Where to inspect between the front fule yank and the injection system ?????
2. Over 38 years i have done all preventative/age related services, but can't find specific info re the fuel line - of course concern both from an age standpoint; also because the fuel supply has to run from the front of the car to the rear engine.
3. Don't want to be confronted with a fuel fire --- so maintain aged fuel lines if needed - but where?
Comment;
per Porsche Servis Manual, I have, since 1985 followed the service manual instruction to PURGE the brake fluid/lines every two years. Wonder of wonders - I have never had any brake service other that replacing pads and finally rotors - NO brake cylinder service/rebuilds; no brake fluid leaks - in 37 years !!!! The folks in Stuttgart know what they have designed and built and know how to maintain it - if simply followed !
Best Wishes,
Greg

[Tom]

Tom,
Two points: = one question - one comment /proof;
1.On my 1985 3.2 Carrera where do I go to inspect fuel lines for service/replacement? Aren't these steel lines? Where to inspect between the front fule yank and the injection system ?????
2. Over 38 years i have done all preventative/age related services, but can't find specific info re the fuel line - of course concern both from an age standpoint; also because the fuel supply has to run from the front of the car to the rear engine.
3. Don't want to be confronted with a fuel fire --- so maintain aged fuel lines if needed - but where?
Comment;
per Porsche Servis Manual, I have, since 1985 followed the service manual instruction to PURGE the brake fluid/lines every two years. Wonder of wonders - I have never had any brake service other that replacing pads and finally rotors - NO brake cylinder service/rebuilds; no brake fluid leaks - in 37 years !!!! The folks in Stuttgart know what they have designed and built and know how to maintain it - if simply followed !
Best Wishes,
Greg

Hi Greg, to be clear, I'm no expert on the 3.2 engines (although I loved mine). My comment was more of a general point about cars from this era. The 944 motors from the 80's are notorious for fuel lines leaking on the exhaust and burning the whole car, and have a lot of common DNA.

The fuel lines are metal where they can be, but they are coupled to the motor via rubber hoses, since the motor moves around a bit relative to the chassis. I would assume you can still get the lines from the dealer, but you might consider the ones linked below from @Griff Griffiths. They are made with updated rubber to deal with ethanol in fuel, etc. You can see them (to help spot them in the engine bay) and get a good sense for what's involved to change them in the Griffiths link below.

https://griffiths.com/product/911-3-2-engine-fuel-line/

If yours are factory originals, I'd probably change them regardless of what they look like. When I took over my dad's old '79 Mercedes, one of the first things I did was change the original fuel lines in the engine bay. They 'looked' fine, but crumbled apart as I removed them, so it was just a matter of time....

There may also rubber lines elsewhere in the system, but the ones in the engine bay were the ones I was referring to in particular -- since they so easily drip onto hot exhaust.

Good to hear the brakes are going strong. By purge, do you mean change the fluid or just bleed it? Not to mess with success, but brake fluid should be replaced every few years, as it absorbs water over time.

[aboyandhisdog]

JDHiker, heck I'd R&R ALL the fluids in a car that has been sitting a few years. But a note on changing the brake fluid as a matter of routine (two year) maintenance...I wonder if this "2 year change" is nothing more than a measure to get people to buy brake fluid. You can buy a brake fluid tester for about $15 and it will tell you the moisture content in the fluid. I check mine from time to time and will only change it if the meter says it is time. In my experience, that is pretty rare. Also, engine oil does not really "time out". It can last years. That said, unless you know it to have been changed,and so is clean, I'd for sure change it out. Gotta have clean oil!