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951Guy76 wrote: Tue Jul 02, 2024 6:55 pm
You guys should join this years 944fest at nelson's ledge , big community ,over night tent setup ,barbecue , beer and alot of 944 talk
It's on my bucket list, but I have a family commitment that weekend in California. Carpokes is a proud sponsor of the event, however, and will be helping with some creature comforts at the event. Not sure how much @Rennbay wants to let out of the bag yet, so I'll leave that up to Travis.
Yes, look forward to an amazing VIP tent sponsored by @Tom and @944driver at 944Fest this year. There'll be drinks and giveaways who knows what else. Fun stuff for sure! There'll be an official announcement soon.
I'm trying to gather guys that i know and customers of mine to the 944 fest but not everyone has time to go and always they have excuses know one wants to drive 6 hrs one way like WTF!! if your a Porsche 944 enthusiast go for it show your support!!!
Tom , I purchased the L /R chips klr and ecu , 3.0 fpr now with this setup should i also change the spark plugs I have oem copper bosch , wont they burn out quicker from the excessive fuel and boost? or should i keep the oem what do you think?
951Guy76 wrote: Sat Jul 06, 2024 8:42 pm
Tom , I purchased the L /R chips klr and ecu , 3.0 fpr now with this setup should i also change the spark plugs I have oem copper bosch , wont they burn out quicker from the excessive fuel and boost? or should i keep the oem what do you think?
More power will add more strain to lots of parts, spark plugs included, and the more you hot rod the car, the more you need to stay on top of maintenance (including oil). That said, for a basically stock motor running chips and a MBC at 15psi, a fresh set of NGK BPR6ES (7131) or Bosch WR7DC (7900), gapped to .028" will do great on your motor. Bosch actually changed its WR7DC to WR7DC+ since our cars were made and Porsche spec's those plugs, so now they have a "yttrium enhanced nickel-copper center electrode...for up to 50% longer life." As such, I now slightly prefer the NGK's. I've tried the WR7DC+ plugs, and they work just fine, but my unfounded spidey sense worries that they compromised spark performance for longevity. Also, as anyone over 60 will tell you, change is bad.
Tom, ok so i took the car for a spin today and the car runs smooth on the chips a bit of a difference felt there, but my boost is way high even at decrease mbc . I have a tiel 38mm WG with a spring of .8 that is 11.6 psi mmm should i lower the spring rate some more?
I know the mbc is a bit touchy so maybe i should play with it a bit ?
Also stupid question but is there a difference to mount the tial WG properly will that make a difference in boost?
The oem boost bar goes to 2 psi and my auto meter boost gauge does hit a bit over 10
Let's start by making sure we're on the same page about boost pressure readings. The factory boost gauge reads in BAR, which is different than PSI. 1 BAR roughly equates to the amount of barometric pressure at sea level, which is a little over 14.5 PSI. As we go about our business here on earth, we walk around in about 14.5 PSI of pressure. Without that barometric pressure, our bodies would blow up like all the movie villains do when thrown off the space ship. So the 1 and 2 on the factory gauge show how many BAR of pressure the engine has. Anything under 1 means there is manifold vacuum (i.e., less pressure than the outside air). When the gauge reads 1, that means the manifold pressure is about the same as the outside air. And when the gauge reads 2, that means the manifold has about 1 BAR of boost above the outside air, or as most people think and say, about 14.5 PSI of 'boost.' So if your Auto Meter gauge is showing 11 PSI, for example, the factory gauge on the dash should be about three quarters of the way between 1 and 2 (aka, about 3/4 of a BAR or 11psi of 'boost').
If that's about what you are seeing, then all is well, and you can still turn the boost up a bit to get to 14 or 15 PSI on the Auto Meter gauge, as long as you run high (91 or 93) octane gas. Does that help? If you already knew all that and are still struggling to control the boost, let us know and we can go from there...
Tom, I also found out that when I have a 3.0 fpr on idle its below 40 psi why?
I unplugged the vacuum off of the fpr ran the engine unplugged and the pressure bumped up to 39psi ,I plugged vacuum back to the fpr while the engine was running and the psi stayed the same , it should be 43 correct?
With the vacuum line disconnected, you should see 3 bar of fuel pressure when running a 3 Bar FPR (i.e. about 43.5psi). So as not to run the motor rich, it's best to test with the fuel pump relayed jumpered so you can test with the motor off. When you attach vacuum to the FPR, the amount of fuel pressure will decrease by the amount of vacuum in the line, for a typical drop of about 7psi to something like 35 - 38psi on a running engine at idle. If your fuel pressure is not changing when you apply vacuum to the regulator, something is wrong -- either no vacuum in the line or the FPR isn't working right.
Tom , I have vacuum on the line when i unplug the vacuum line from the 3.0 fpr my auto meter gauge shows ONLY 40psi this is on a running engine .When I plug the vacuum hose back on a running engine the pressure will drop to 39ps.
Maybe the fuel pump is weak I have never change it since I purchased the care 8 years ago, the fuel filter has been replaced last year before the 944 fest
But when i had the 2.5 bar fpr the fuel was proper
