michaelmount123 wrote: Wed May 03, 2023 3:29 pmSo sorry about your failure. How much press did the sleeve have? I hear about way to many failures with sleeving these blocks. It's really not rocket science, just attention to detail.Cruise98 wrote: Wed May 03, 2023 8:50 am I am curious about the details on the Darton flanged sleeves. I just had a block sleeved, and it was a failure. We had a "D" chunk come out of cylinder 1, and there were small cracks at the crank web to cylinder interface. The flange was only supported at the top since the cylinder was bored all the way to the crank web.
- It's fine to bore all the way down a cylinder if you're using flanged sleeves. The flange locates and secures the sleeve at the top of the block, rather than the bottom. Works fine.
- Press on the sleeve is .001-.002" / .025-.050mm.
- Make sure the sleeve is pressed all the way down to the machined step. When the block is heated (in a hot spray washer, for example), the sleeve will pop up as the block cools. The last process in sleeving is usually to resurface the deck, and if the sleeve has popped up it will drop when the head is torqued - no more head seal.
- If there's interest, I can provide a PN for the Darton sleeves that I use for the 944.
I remember Garrity back in the day struggling to sleeve these blocks. He had an amazing shop and was a great guy, but for reasons I'm not sure he ever sorted out (or cared to admit), he had lots of head-sealing issues. @chris white seems to have sorted it out with his Darton MID sleeves. Is that the same sleeve you use? I think it's like any complex skill. Once you have it mastered, it's easy (for you).
