Engine start after sitting a few years 84 3.2

[Carmagic]

On my 84 911 Targa I replaced all fuel lines because it was sitting without engine and transmission outside for over 10 years.
Here a picture who I found my Targa, looks like yours is in much better condition, LOL


The tunnel fuel lines are plastic and they actually were in good condition, but since the car was complete disassembled, I just replaced them with metal lines and also made all new fuel line and replaced all rubber lines between Tank and engine.



For your case I would recommend to inspect the fuel tank. You can remove the level sensor and see what the fuel looks like. If it looks clean, and the inside of the tank looks clean, flush the fuel lines. disconnect the fuel line in the engine bay and extent the line into a bucket. Bridge the DME relay, so you can activate the fuel pump and run it until clean fuel comes out.

If that all it good, reconnect all and start the car and run it for a while.

I would recommend to replace all rubber fuel lines in the near future.

Cheers
Engelbert

[Jdhiker]

Wow that was a project car. But perfect way to be able to change all that you wanted !
How is the car now? Done? What stage you at?

[Carmagic]

I don't want to hi-jack your thread, but here are some pictures.







Cheers
Engelbert

[german1985]

Tom,
My 1985 Porsche maintenance manual calls for a brake fluid FLUSH every 2 years. I have complied since 1987. last couple of services I have upgraded to DOT 4 - so am now on a 3 year flush schedule.
I have for decades also instituted this brake fluid flush procedure on the other vehicles in my household. We see in discussions/foruns 4 out of five times the comment that brake fluid absorbs H2O = so ???? If it does then it needs to be changed ie bled to the farthest wheel and then back to the master. If we admit that brake fluid is hydroscopic then what question remains re regular maintenance flushing ? I don't see a question here !!!!
Am I missing some point of logic here ???
Greg

[Tom]

Tom,
My 1985 Porsche maintenance manual calls for a brake fluid FLUSH every 2 years. I have complied since 1987. last couple of services I have upgraded to DOT 4 - so am now on a 3 year flush schedule.
I have for decades also instituted this brake fluid flush procedure on the other vehicles in my household. We see in discussions/foruns 4 out of five times the comment that brake fluid absorbs H2O = so ???? If it does then it needs to be changed ie bled to the farthest wheel and then back to the master. If we admit that brake fluid is hydroscopic then what question remains re regular maintenance flushing ? I don't see a question here !!!!
Am I missing some point of logic here ???
Greg

If you are flushing the brake fluid every 2 or 3 years, that's great -- your brakes are better maintained than most cars on the road. I mentioned it because I wasn't sure if "purge" meant a simple brake bleed or a complete fluid replacement. Sounds like you are all over it!

[Jdhiker]

1. good idea to change the oil before the next start ie 11 qts. so be sure to have a 911 size drain pan - drain both the crank case plug and the oil tank plug - both plugs require a new compression washer before retorquing.
a. standard procedure is to change/drain oil from a warmed up engine, BUT in this case that is not possible so just
drain and refill with 10 quarts.
b. When the engine is up and running you check the oil - WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING - oil tank dip stick should read
oil level 1/2 between the adding and full marks.
2. This era engine benefits from high zddp oil - 20W-50 - check internet sources - also contact:
Charles Navarro L N Engineering (815) 472-2939 [email protected] to access quality zddp oil.
3. How full is the gas tank? old gas does not burn well; so fill the tank with fresh gasoline to dilute the 2 year old gas. A
container of "Techroline" added to this now full tank is a good idea.
3. After the above and the engine is running, inspect the engine compartment without touching anything - ie from a sound
standpoint to determine where the hiss is comming from.
4. If rodents have made their home there ie chewed through air intake components then a complete inspection of the
intake air box and filter component is needed to look for leaks in the intake path.
5. There is also a small SS colored motor/cylinder, mounted horizontally above the fan housing that actuates and is
involved in engine startup and running - hose attached as an input into air intake as the motor regulates.
engine star-up fuel air mixture.
6. Great sign that the engine stared after 2 years without any of the above steps taken before. I suspect you have a
great car with a small problem to diagnose and repair = NO Fingers or HANDS - inspecting engine parts when the
engine is running!!!!!!
7. I have owned a 1985 of this model since new - 198,652 miles and just now getting broken in good.
8. Your Father has given you a gift of a LIFETIME!!!!!

So changing the oil to the higher Zinc 20w-50. Is this Dino oil. A blend or full synthetic? What’s everyone going to on these older 911’s

[Jdhiker]

1. good idea to change the oil before the next start ie 11 qts. so be sure to have a 911 size drain pan - drain both the crank case plug and the oil tank plug - both plugs require a new compression washer before retorquing.
a. standard procedure is to change/drain oil from a warmed up engine, BUT in this case that is not possible so just
drain and refill with 10 quarts.
b. When the engine is up and running you check the oil - WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING - oil tank dip stick should read
oil level 1/2 between the adding and full marks.
2. This era engine benefits from high zddp oil - 20W-50 - check internet sources - also contact:
Charles Navarro L N Engineering (815) 472-2939 [email protected] to access quality zddp oil.
3. How full is the gas tank? old gas does not burn well; so fill the tank with fresh gasoline to dilute the 2 year old gas. A
container of "Techroline" added to this now full tank is a good idea.
3. After the above and the engine is running, inspect the engine compartment without touching anything - ie from a sound
standpoint to determine where the hiss is comming from.
4. If rodents have made their home there ie chewed through air intake components then a complete inspection of the
intake air box and filter component is needed to look for leaks in the intake path.
5. There is also a small SS colored motor/cylinder, mounted horizontally above the fan housing that actuates and is
involved in engine startup and running - hose attached as an input into air intake as the motor regulates.
engine star-up fuel air mixture.
6. Great sign that the engine stared after 2 years without any of the above steps taken before. I suspect you have a
great car with a small problem to diagnose and repair = NO Fingers or HANDS - inspecting engine parts when the
engine is running!!!!!!
7. I have owned a 1985 of this model since new - 198,652 miles and just now getting broken in good.
8. Your Father has given you a gift of a LIFETIME!!!!!

[Carmagic]

So changing the oil to the higher Zinc 20w-50. Is this Dino oil. A blend or full synthetic? What’s everyone going to on these older 911’s

I use Valvoline VR1 20w50 high zinc. You can get it local in Autozone. I used Brad Penn oil 20w50 before, but it's not local available. You can buy the Valvoline VR1 in 5 qt can, it's even cheaper.

Cheers
Engelbert

[german1985]

RE brake maintenance ie 1985 Porsche = Porsche on this model calls for brake fluid flush every two years. That means bleed brake fluid till new fluid from the pressurized master cylinder reservoir reaches that brake assembly i.e. PS rear first --- and so forth ie farthest to nearest.
I will not use DOT 5 = silicone based fluid, so have moved to DOT 4 and established a 3 year complete flushes superseding the 1985 manual of 2 year flushes before DOT 4 fluid existed. For most folks "out of sight - out of mind" !
There is microscopic movements in functioning brake parts i.e. tiny movements - all lubricated with brake flued when the pistons expand and contract ==== so brake problems come predominately from leakage between the pistons/cylinders - then out through the rubber boots sealing the assembly from dust/dirt.
This isn't from metal to meatal wear, but from metal oxidation corrosion of aluminum pistons and steel cylinders === IN THE PRESENCE OF H2O ! Any metal - and especially dissimilar metals break down via electroless -- not in the presence of the electrically stable brake fluid BUT do scum to electrolysis molecular deteriation when the electrolyte H2O is present>

[pdog928]

Hi
Im curious about your opinion on how often we should change the engine oil. I have a 79 911sc I only drive it 1500 to 2000 miles a year. I keep it in Florida and drive it in the winter season. i do sneak down occasionally to drive it several times during the year. I change it once a year regardless, unless I drive it 3000 miles
Thanks Peter