Oil Pan Gasket - While I'm in there...

[whalenlg]

Engine out tonight - 3 observations
-No way was this engine coming out below the car with the AC compressor hanging. Maybe the hoses got shortened at some point. Once the compressor was removed, engine dropped right out.
-Cross member wouldn't come out unless I had all the top motor mount bolts removed. Wasn't able to wiggle it out with even 1 of 4 bolts still in place (bottom nuts were removed of course).
-My 25" clearance was not way to much. Not sure who could get this out with 21" unless they maybe remove the exhaust headers and tilt it.

[whalenlg]

New question - has anyone changed over to AN12 oil cooler hoses?
Let me know if this has worked out and what set of parts used to replace the quite expensive OEM hoses.
It looks pretty easy with Setrab 22mm to AN12 converters, but just double checking.
Thanks!

[four0four]

Yes! It is exactly that. You'll need some big-ass wrenches to get the hoses and original adapters off the housing and the cooler. If SAE sizes are more readily available, 1 1/16 and 1 1/4 are basically perfect.

As far as fittings, my setup is a bit different (added a 2nd stock cooler on the other side of the rad), but I used 1 straight and 3 45 deg ends. I think without the additional radiator you might want a 90 instead of the straight.

Finally, an unsolicited $0.02: Get nylon sheathed or rubber hoses. The stainless jackets like to eat right through anything they come in contact with.

[whalenlg]

Thanks! Yeah I have those big wrenches from the last time I dealt with the oil lines.
And those .02 cents are the reason for the post - keep them coming!

[whalenlg]

Teardown continues....today's milestones - head removed, water pump removed, lower balance shaft removed.
See pics. There are some faint scores on a couple of cylinders, but the pistons don't look that bad. Not significant oil seen in cylinders.
Couple of issues
-1 exhaust stud wouldn't come out - since I'm sending the head for assessment, I'll let then machine shop deal with it.-
-Water pump studs are really rusted - sprayed some Kroil so will have to be patient.
-The lower opening of the water pump had some oil coming in. Might just be a result of pulling the head gasket and some oil leaked through.

[Tom]

You've been busy. Looks pretty good to me! I'd run those cylinders for sure, at least from a scoring perspective.

Take a look at the valves seals to see if any are obviously defective on the cylinders with oily plugs...

Rusty water pump studs sometime break no matter what you do. The Carpokes drill jig takes a lot of the stress out of that, however.

viewtopic.php?t=511

[whalenlg]

BTW - clutch came in at .3mm depth on 1 of the rivets, so that confirms its time to change it.

Looks like I may need that jig - thanks for the suggestion!

[Tom]

Hopefully you won't need the drill jig, but it is super helpful if you do!

I'd replace or refinish all the clutch parts since it will never be so easy. By the way, I have the factory rear main seal tool if you want to use it. I bought it after my first attempt to install a rear main seal failed with a home-made tool...

[whalenlg]

And the floor is open to replacement clutch options

I'm OK with the Sachs replacement, but welcome to other opinions for street driving.

[barnwerks]

On re-assembly, be sure to position the crankshaft timing pulley the correct way around. The flange should be forward, not against the block as previously installed.