I would bypass the KLR and see if the 951 DME fires up. Pull the KLR connector off, run a jumper between pins 9 and 16 in the KLR connector with a short wire and a couple of skinny spade connectors, and leave the connector off with that jumper in place. I'm still curious why your boost gauge is dead. I'd have to look closer to confirm, but believe the boost gauge is driven entirely by the pressure sensor in the KLR with no dependencies on the DME. By using an N/A DME, I think you effectively bypassed the KLR. So, if you reinstall the 951 DME and bypass the KLR so that the ignition signal doesn't go through the KLR, I'd say there's a 51/49 chance your motor will fire up.
Whichever box is the culprit, cracked colder joints and bad chips can sometimes make for easy repairs...
No Start + Jolt?
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Tom
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Tom
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Hey I got one -- even a blind hog finds an acorn once in a while.whalenlg wrote: Sun May 25, 2025 9:52 am 51 wins - started right up with the jumper installed. I’ll pull the klr and look for the obvious culprits.
Check especially the solder joints where the main connector pins are soldered to the board. A magnifying glass is a must at my age, though zoomed-in iPhone pictures work too. Mindful of your profession, however, I feel like a Soap Opera doctor telling his cardiologist how to do his job. 
John at Vitesse Racing used to always preach changing the KLR chip before proclaiming it dead. For whatever reason, he said he had seen several KLR chips die and brick the whole box.