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Trimbk wrote: Mon Mar 24, 2025 5:55 pm
I used M6x1 thread, 20mm long.
As I recall, I didn't try to print the internal thread, so you either need to run a tap through, or heat up the screw and let it make it's own threads.
I use these on my license plate mounts, and swear by them.
good call - those inserts work well with 3d printing. I've used them before by just putting a soldering iron in middle and easing it into the hole. The 3d printed hole should probably be a little larger for this to work best.
Trimbk wrote: Mon Mar 24, 2025 6:29 pm
good call - those inserts work well with 3d printing. I've used them before by just putting a soldering iron in middle and easing it into the hole. The 3d printed hole should probably be a little larger for this to work best.
Yeah, I use an 8mm hole, which is always a little smaller as actually printed. I've heli-coiled plastic holes too, which works great and is probably cheaper, but it takes a more time and effort than the heat-set inserts, so not as good for higher volume items like my mounts -- but a good alternative for one-off parts.
I want to thank Trimbk for introducing us to the Grayline product. I had never heard of it before. I have been aligning my car's toe in for years with a center line on the center of tire width and measuring the front and rear of the front tires to get a straight tow in. I used this method to get the alignment close enough to get the car to the alignment shop. Has anybody in this forum tried the Grayline product? Sounds great.
I have not tried the Gyraline yet. The YouTube reviews are decent - certainly not as accurate as a laser system or a well-done string, but seems a lot easier.
As a never tried 3d printing person I would like to invest and start printing and the 90* pieces for the string method seem to be a good place to start instead of the way I have been doing it. Any advice from those that 3d print as to what type of printer I should be looking at and the material that would be used? How do I download the print file and use it on a printer? Is this something I should be attempting?
julerb wrote: Sun Mar 30, 2025 8:25 am
As a never tried 3d printing person I would like to invest and start printing and the 90* pieces for the string method seem to be a good place to start instead of the way I have been doing it. Any advice from those that 3d print as to what type of printer I should be looking at and the material that would be used? How do I download the print file and use it on a printer? Is this something I should be attempting?
Go for it! 3D-printing is a invaluable tool for gearheads! @Trimbk might have tips for these particular models he posted, but on quick review it looks like they'd be fine in basic PLA. PLA is the most common/basic 3D-printing material and what most beginners start out with. For car parts/tools, you'll likely want to graduate to plastics that can take more heat and stress (PLA will warp/deform inside a hot car) but PLA would seem to be ok for these parts.
To download the files, just click on them and they will download. These files are in the common STL file format, which virtually all 3D-printers accept and print.
As for printers, I'm a fan of the printers from Bambu Lab. They print faster, better, and easier than anything else I've tried. They have a mini printer for under $250 that is probably big enough for these parts, although if you think you'll get 'into it' and start printing other parts for cars, I'd suggest at least the P1S. That's the lowest end enclosed printer they offer, and you'll want the enclosure for higher-temp filaments like ABS and CF-filled plastics. Printer technology has vastly improved over the last 5 - 10 years, so there are a lot of options out there from companies like Prusa, Creality, Anycubic, etc., etc., that would run circles around the top printers from just 5 years ago...
I'm aligned with the advice that @Tom gave. I did use PLA for these parts. It seems to be the easiest material to get started using. For higher temperature applications, apparently ASA is a good choice, but is harder to use.
I got started using a Prusa printer. Their slicer is easy to use and the system setup was pretty easy. But I hear good things about the Bambu.
Trimbk wrote: Sun Mar 30, 2025 11:40 am
I'm aligned with the advice that @Tom gave. I did use PLA for these parts. It seems to be the easiest material to get started using. For higher temperature applications, apparently ASA is a good choice, but is harder to use.
I got started using a Prusa printer. Their slicer is easy to use and the system setup was pretty easy. But I hear good things about the Bambu.
If I didn't have a Bambu, I'd have an core xy Prusa PLA is the easiest to use by far, but my default material is ABS. With an enclosed printer, it's not too bad. On an open printer, warping can be an issue, so something like PETG is a good middle ground. ASA is a tweaked version of ABS that withstands UV better for outdoor use.
PLA is the easiest to use by far, but my default material is ABS. With an enclosed printer, it's not too bad. On an open printer, warping can be an issue, so something like PETG is a good middle ground. ASA is a tweaked version of ABS that withstands UV better for outdoor use.