They're not all standard sizes, I've found someone in the US who has sourced some of them, I have a damaged tensioner I found cheap on the way to dissect to look into the feasibility of DIY repair.944crazy wrote: Sat Jan 10, 2026 3:46 am Great build thread mate. Look forward to seeing more progress.
Wonder if the tensioner could be rebuilt with new seals sourced from local bearing/seal shops.
944S2 16V Turbo Build
Its quite amazing the change from the Stock S2, the massive surge of torque out of corners coupled with the new suspension make the car feel much more modern driveability wise but still with the 80s rawness we love.ROB III wrote: Sat Jan 10, 2026 3:31 pm @Bergerac
Thanks for the observations on bushings and KW installation.
I've read similar results from others and your confirmation just adds fuel to the fire for me to pony up the funds to do the same. Shock technology has obviously progressed to prove control and lack of harshness can co-exist.
Thank you
If I was going for a more track oriented car, I would definately look at Intrax or MCS and poly bushes.
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Deathwish68
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Hey Bergerac,
Fantastic build post and very informative as I'm embarking on a new engine build: 3.1L Turbo Hybrid Stroker w/16v s2 head. Was curious to get some additional info on your valve train setup. I realize that you're using variocam different from my S2 setup, so I'll likely go with a twin cam drive to give me dialability w/the stock S2 cams.
Could you share details on your valve, camshaft spec and spring setup? I'm not seeing many aftermarket spring options and have received conflicting info re: potential valve float and need to upgrade spring rates/seats/cams.
My build uses the mitsu rods w/offset ground crank and chevy small-block (4.125 bore) pistons, so I'm also targeting 500-600rwhp w/aftermarket engine management.
Fantastic build post and very informative as I'm embarking on a new engine build: 3.1L Turbo Hybrid Stroker w/16v s2 head. Was curious to get some additional info on your valve train setup. I realize that you're using variocam different from my S2 setup, so I'll likely go with a twin cam drive to give me dialability w/the stock S2 cams.
Could you share details on your valve, camshaft spec and spring setup? I'm not seeing many aftermarket spring options and have received conflicting info re: potential valve float and need to upgrade spring rates/seats/cams.
My build uses the mitsu rods w/offset ground crank and chevy small-block (4.125 bore) pistons, so I'm also targeting 500-600rwhp w/aftermarket engine management.
I have custom one piece valves machined out of 214n, (it was cheaper than buying OEM),stock cams but installed the PAC valve springs and retainers from Catcams (insurance from float).
I do have some springs that came with my head (from Pete F) but the open pressure was way too high for what we wanted. They were supposed to be manley from memory (I'll dig through my chat with Pete and check) I'm happy to sell them if your interested. The only thing is you will need to find suitable retainers, the ones they came with looked like the head shop who built it gave them to their dog to chew.
I do have some springs that came with my head (from Pete F) but the open pressure was way too high for what we wanted. They were supposed to be manley from memory (I'll dig through my chat with Pete and check) I'm happy to sell them if your interested. The only thing is you will need to find suitable retainers, the ones they came with looked like the head shop who built it gave them to their dog to chew.
Weve changed the tensioner for a refurbished one and replaced the feed tube/check valve for a new one, didnt fix the issue unfortunatly. At a loss what it could be now. Only happens at idle when its hot so its not lifters, sound disappears with revs.
Oil pressure is on the low side when its hot (1.5bar), I put a new pickup in when we built it and we checked the balance shaft timing was still good so I doubt its cracked.
Ive installed a CAN Key pad too so I can now start playing with adjusting the traction/boost control on the fly. The car is hard to drive in the rain without hilarous power slides in every corner.
Oil pressure is on the low side when its hot (1.5bar), I put a new pickup in when we built it and we checked the balance shaft timing was still good so I doubt its cracked.
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Thom
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1.5 bar at idle seems very low. I do not get less than 3 bar in the warmest weather (Motul 300V 15W50 currently). What oil grade do you use and how hot does oil get when you see 1.5 bar?
A factory documentation explains that the tensioner is not energised when oil in the head exceeds a certain temperature (as measured with the sensor specific to the 968 head). I can't remember the triggering temperature though but IIRC it's quite high, perhaps 120°C?
Anyway, does the rattle change depending on the tensioner position?
A factory documentation explains that the tensioner is not energised when oil in the head exceeds a certain temperature (as measured with the sensor specific to the 968 head). I can't remember the triggering temperature though but IIRC it's quite high, perhaps 120°C?
Anyway, does the rattle change depending on the tensioner position?
'90 944 turbo
Im running Mobil 1 15w-50, from memory oil temp was around 95degC. TBH 3Bar seems high? I remember my car dropping under 2 at idle with the old engine, there is no issue with pressure at 80degC/5000rpm, its well over 5bar.
Its never deactivated, the trigger point just gets raised
It seems to disappear when the varicam is activated @1500rpm, Ill have to see if changes with it deactivated. The car wont idle with it activated at idle so its hard to tell if that makes a difference.
Its never deactivated, the trigger point just gets raised
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Thom
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Sorry, yes, this is the doc.
I have never seen less than 3 bar at warm idle on my 3 turbo engines.
Original 2.5 was the strongest at 4 bar in the cold season, both 3L showing between 3 and 3.5 bar depending on outer temp. Less than 3 bar with a 15W50 oil grade seems too low to me.
Why won't your engine idle with the variocam enabled?
I have never seen less than 3 bar at warm idle on my 3 turbo engines.
Original 2.5 was the strongest at 4 bar in the cold season, both 3L showing between 3 and 3.5 bar depending on outer temp. Less than 3 bar with a 15W50 oil grade seems too low to me.
Why won't your engine idle with the variocam enabled?
'90 944 turbo
Is that only measured on the dash gauge? It fails high so I dont trust it completely, all my measurements are a from sensor feeding straight back to the ECU.
I had a look through the manual again and the spec for idle is 2.5bar @80deg C, looking through my logs Ive had values between 2.2 and 2.8 depending on the rpm, highest temp Ive seen is around 100 where it drops to 1.5, definately a case for better cooling.
The check valve effectively traps the pressure the variocam was deactivated inside the unit at as rpm drops, perhaps a good test will be to raise the trigger RPM when the noise is occuring and see if deactivating at a higher oil pressure resolves the issue.
I had a look through the manual again and the spec for idle is 2.5bar @80deg C, looking through my logs Ive had values between 2.2 and 2.8 depending on the rpm, highest temp Ive seen is around 100 where it drops to 1.5, definately a case for better cooling.
The check valve effectively traps the pressure the variocam was deactivated inside the unit at as rpm drops, perhaps a good test will be to raise the trigger RPM when the noise is occuring and see if deactivating at a higher oil pressure resolves the issue.