Knock events counter on F9T DME

[Tom]

Knock (as in detonation or ping) is really related to four things: AFR, ignition timing, load and fuel octane. All play a role in whether you get knock, so its not just AFR's. Under normal cruising conditions, ie light load, you should really never see knock, even when extremely lean, unless your timing is extremely advanced. You would typically see a misfire or bucking/surging if its overly lean at light loads. Under load (such as going up hill in a low gear, flooring the accelerator at low RPM or under boost), is when you normally see knock/detonation and this is where all four factors can play a role.

Since you are running an aftermarket cam you may want to ensure you reinstalled the distributor rotor and have it clocked correctly and verify timing with a timing light and compare to what the F9 DME total timing is reading. That could be one scenario where your timing is too far advanced even though you havent modified the ignition timing tables, which as far as I know, is not possible with the F9Tech DMEs (unless chipped or reflashed).

You can't change timing by clocking the distributor - it's controlled entirely by the speed and ref sensors. The rotor is just timed so that the contacts are closed for a wide enough window to cover the full range required in the timing maps. Clocking it will either have no effect on timing, or else result in the spark just not firing if you go too far.

In other words, the DME fires the spark when commanded, regardless of rotor/cap position -- when fired, the spark will just jump/arc from the rotor to the closest plug contact inside the cap.

[walfreyydo]

That makes sense, I guess I thought that because of the adjustment in the cam gear/rotor position bolts that it worked that way. My old Honda allowed clocking of the distributor to advance timing and thought for some reason that it worked the same with the rotor position on these cars and potentially, the cause for the OP's "knocking" problem given the aftermarket cam and potential likelihood of misalignment upon reinstall.

Thinking about it more, those honda distributors had an integrated coil and timing sensor, so rotating it would affect the ignition timing. Different than on the 944 which has an external coil and external timing (reference) sensor.

[turbotoys]

I greatly appreciate this thread. I've been wondering about the number of knock events I see on my F9. It's all over the map, and it also depends on the gas and chip I have installed. The fat tune chip pretty much keeps the AFM in the 14.7 range until I get on it, and then as expected drops to 11.5ish under boost. While the AFM numbers seem right, and it starts and idles ok, it has a bit of a hesitation when getting on it. The knock events are higher than on my lean tune.

My lean tune idles at 14.7, cruises on the highway at around 16.3, and when you get on it, it goes to 11.3ish. Honestly, the car all around is way happier with this tune. It starts better, comes out of the hole strong and smooth, and never hesitates. Knock events seem to be fewer, and the car seems to run a bit cooler.

I've been recording all the data for both chips using 85 and 91octane and have built an AI 944T tuning agent that goes through it all and provides graphs, scatter plots, tables, and recommendations for chip adjustments. It's crazy how much it knows about the KLR and DME and the cars in general. I'm pretty close to getting the tune just right for my elevation of 5,800 ft.

[Mscromer]

I greatly appreciate this thread. I've been wondering about the number of knock events I see on my F9. It's all over the map, and it also depends on the gas and chip I have installed. The fat tune chip pretty much keeps the AFM in the 14.7 range until I get on it, and then as expected drops to 11.5ish under boost. While the AFM numbers seem right, and it starts and idles ok, it has a bit of a hesitation when getting on it. The knock events are higher than on my lean tune.

My lean tune idles at 14.7, cruises on the highway at around 16.3, and when you get on it, it goes to 11.3ish. Honestly, the car all around is way happier with this tune. It starts better, comes out of the hole strong and smooth, and never hesitates. Knock events seem to be fewer, and the car seems to run a bit cooler.

I've been recording all the data for both chips using 85 and 91octane and have built an AI 944T tuning agent that goes through it all and provides graphs, scatter plots, tables, and recommendations for chip adjustments. It's crazy how much it knows about the KLR and DME and the cars in general. I'm pretty close to getting the tune just right for my elevation of 5,800 ft.

Can you give me more info on what chips you’re using and how you are tuning(programming) them. I have the F9T obd+ also but I just have the stock chip he used from my old DME. He put his F9T sticker on the chip don’t know if that means he does something to it or what. Anyway I’d like to get into what you’re doing to get it to run perfect

Edit: never mind I just found Tom’s detailed thread on how to do it.

[turbotoys]

I greatly appreciate this thread. I've been wondering about the number of knock events I see on my F9. It's all over the map, and it also depends on the gas and chip I have installed. The fat tune chip pretty much keeps the AFM in the 14.7 range until I get on it, and then as expected drops to 11.5ish under boost. While the AFM numbers seem right, and it starts and idles ok, it has a bit of a hesitation when getting on it. The knock events are higher than on my lean tune.

My lean tune idles at 14.7, cruises on the highway at around 16.3, and when you get on it, it goes to 11.3ish. Honestly, the car all around is way happier with this tune. It starts better, comes out of the hole strong and smooth, and never hesitates. Knock events seem to be fewer, and the car seems to run a bit cooler.

I've been recording all the data for both chips using 85 and 91octane and have built an AI 944T tuning agent that goes through it all and provides graphs, scatter plots, tables, and recommendations for chip adjustments. It's crazy how much it knows about the KLR and DME and the cars in general. I'm pretty close to getting the tune just right for my elevation of 5,800 ft.

Can you give me more info on what chips you’re using and how you are tuning(programming) them. I have the F9T obd+ also but I just have the stock chip he used from my old DME. He put his F9T sticker on the chip don’t know if that means he does something to it or what. Anyway I’d like to get into what you’re doing to get it to run perfect

Edit: never mind I just found Tom’s detailed thread on how to do it.

I've seen Tom's thread, but I actually send a data summary to John Behe, who has been a Porsche Cup tuner and engine builder for a long time. He burns new ones based on what I send him and our conversations. It's crazy what a difference his tunes have made from the one that was burned years ago. What you get from F9, as you know, is a stock tune. John tunes for a number of Charlie of Evergreen Turbo's clients.

[Mscromer]

I greatly appreciate this thread. I've been wondering about the number of knock events I see on my F9. It's all over the map, and it also depends on the gas and chip I have installed. The fat tune chip pretty much keeps the AFM in the 14.7 range until I get on it, and then as expected drops to 11.5ish under boost. While the AFM numbers seem right, and it starts and idles ok, it has a bit of a hesitation when getting on it. The knock events are higher than on my lean tune.

My lean tune idles at 14.7, cruises on the highway at around 16.3, and when you get on it, it goes to 11.3ish. Honestly, the car all around is way happier with this tune. It starts better, comes out of the hole strong and smooth, and never hesitates. Knock events seem to be fewer, and the car seems to run a bit cooler.

I've been recording all the data for both chips using 85 and 91octane and have built an AI 944T tuning agent that goes through it all and provides graphs, scatter plots, tables, and recommendations for chip adjustments. It's crazy how much it knows about the KLR and DME and the cars in general. I'm pretty close to getting the tune just right for my elevation of 5,800 ft.

Can you give me more info on what chips you’re using and how you are tuning(programming) them. I have the F9T obd+ also but I just have the stock chip he used from my old DME. He put his F9T sticker on the chip don’t know if that means he does something to it or what. Anyway I’d like to get into what you’re doing to get it to run perfect

Edit: never mind I just found Tom’s detailed thread on how to do it.

I've seen Tom's thread, but I actually send a data summary to John Behe, who has been a Porsche Cup tuner and engine builder for a long time. He burns new ones based on what I send him and our conversations. It's crazy what a difference his tunes have made from the one that was burned years ago. What you get from F9, as you know, is a stock tune. John tunes for a number of Charlie of Evergreen Turbo's clients.

What does John charge for this. I’d like to get in contact with him once I get my Ostrich 2.0 I just ordered.

[Tom]

Can you give me more info on what chips you’re using and how you are tuning(programming) them. I have the F9T obd+ also but I just have the stock chip he used from my old DME. He put his F9T sticker on the chip don’t know if that means he does something to it or what. Anyway I’d like to get into what you’re doing to get it to run perfect

Edit: never mind I just found Tom’s detailed thread on how to do it.

I've seen Tom's thread, but I actually send a data summary to John Behe, who has been a Porsche Cup tuner and engine builder for a long time. He burns new ones based on what I send him and our conversations. It's crazy what a difference his tunes have made from the one that was burned years ago. What you get from F9, as you know, is a stock tune. John tunes for a number of Charlie of Evergreen Turbo's clients.

What does John charge for this. I’d like to get in contact with him once I get my Ostrich 2.0 I just ordered.

Once you have the Ostrich, you'll be adjusting your tune in real time based on real time results -- with no need to have anyone burn a chip for you. You can dial your AFR in to the decimal point in an afternoon rather than sending chips back and forth through the mail. Same basic process, but each change takes seconds rather than a week or more. I also have the carpokes base performance chip being beta tested now and plan to offer them for peanuts. Power to the people and all.

[turbotoys]

I've seen Tom's thread, but I actually send a data summary to John Behe, who has been a Porsche Cup tuner and engine builder for a long time. He burns new ones based on what I send him and our conversations. It's crazy what a difference his tunes have made from the one that was burned years ago. What you get from F9, as you know, is a stock tune. John tunes for a number of Charlie of Evergreen Turbo's clients.

What does John charge for this. I’d like to get in contact with him once I get my Ostrich 2.0 I just ordered.

Once you have the Ostrich, you'll be adjusting your tune in real time based on real time results -- with no need to have anyone burn a chip for you. You can dial your AFR in to the decimal point in an afternoon rather than sending chips back and forth through the mail. Same basic process, but each change takes seconds rather than a week or more. I also have the carpokes base performance chip being beta tested now and plan to offer them for peanuts. Power to the people and all.

Thanks Tom.. I'll be following the progress as I'm keenly interested