Carpokes Porsche Forum

I cant find the dyno data - but typically that would make about 450rwhp at 1 bar. more with higher boost but that starts to become really turbo dependent. It had a Vitesse turbo that Hugh already owned.

Here is the car today, I really appreciate all this info. It might be the Evans coolant, it appears he really didn't do to much after the first year and the last 8-9 it pretty much sat in storage getting started a couple times per year (non op registration for the last 6 or so) Looking at Lindsey Racing they have a stock radiator and one with the built in oil cooler as well, is it better than the wizard or really just go separate units? And Hugh explained the 5 presets in Boost and to not go over 18PSI WO race gas.

The Lindsey radiator with the oil cooler is made by Wizzard - same design as the unit you have unless they updated it over the years. I woudl go back to stock, a good stock radiator will cool more than enough.

Looks like a great build!

And thanks for the info on the Wizard radiator/oil cooler combo, had been looking into that as an eventual replacement for my 951's stock radiator/dual stock oil cooler setup.

I have never understood the Evans coolant thing, the only advantage is additional headroom against boiling in the event of overheating, for which the tradeoff of the engine running hotter at all times is not worth it, especially in a knock-limited turbocharged engine in which cooler head temps are desirable.

OK, the ability to run low cooling system pressures is nice for preventing potential leaks, but glycol is not allowed by most track organizations in any case, so high-pressure, water-only systems are a must anyway, and they cool better!

/rant

I tried the Evans coolant on my track car 20 years ago....slipperiest stuff ever invented! one small leak and my car was all over the place.

A lot of tracks won't let you run Evans. Too many problems if the car leaks.

I know the previous owner and rode in that car when it was on the East coast many years ago. You have a great car that was well cared for and which benefited from an open checkbook for maintenance and upgrades. I still remember how solid the car felt while riding shotgun.

Sorry for not coming back to this sooner, I have been out of town up until last night. Today I flushed (several times) the Evans coolant out and that seemed to fix the high (to me) temp. issue. I did several 16lb pulls and drove streets and fwy and ran 190-200 with AC on. VERY happy with that! I really like the car and want to bring it up to specs. I can do some basic things (the timing belt etc) but the computer system is beyond me. If anyone can suggest someone in the LA/OC area that may be able to help it would be appreciated.

The car itself is very tight and was very well taken care of, I have no complaints or issues with build quality and I believe I got a great deal for what's in it. It just needs a little more finishing.

fun thread!

ok quick update on this, I have had a few items that had to be addressed. SORRY for the long read.

1. broke the AC tension bar that the crank sensor is mounted to (bolt on back of AC condenser backed out allowing vibration)
2. replaced the crank sensor as it started acting up right after it hit the pully when the tensioner broke
3.changed the connection/harness from the O2 sensor to the AFR gauge and now can read the AFR
4. connected the elec. sensors to the sport seats so they now operate, heated seats and all!

From day one the motor hunts at idle, I thought it was related to the tune so I went to have the hal tech computer checked out and was told it is working properly even though its a old version however was told but it had a exhaust leak (couldn't hear it but did smell exhaust. I found a crack on the crossover pipe and had welded and the car runs smoother and better than ever really good driving esp. at fwy speeds and the AFR is good. HOWEVER it still hunts at idle abet less than before. It has me baffled because its 1-200 with the AC off but 4-500 with the AC on....

Im thinking I could have another exhaust leak maybe in the header (at head? exhaust gasket? still don't hear anything) OR could it be the idle stabilization valve? OR is it the tune fighting the manual idle adjustment? FYI it idles better when fully warmed up and AFR only fluctuates a little (its solid at cruising speeds/RPM) Any others ever deal with this?