Header warp?
Hey everyone, I’m having some trouble lining up my headers to the block during a head gasket repair. For the life of me I can’t get the header to line up to the studs, and I’m wondering if my headers are actually just warped? The studs don’t look crooked and I’m baffled as to how this happened
‘83 Platinum N/A 944
-
Tom
- Site Admin
- Posts: 8951
- Joined: Fri Jun 25, 2021 2:04 pm
- Location: Silicon Valley, CA
- Has thanked: 936 times
- Been thanked: 4016 times
- Contact:
Do you have some pictures? On my car, the 2/3 header are always a bit warped, which makes the holes just a bit too close together to fit over the studs (and/or for me to thread the studs into their holes through the header flanges). My low-tech solution is to take a short M6 bolt that is just a smidge shorter than the distance between the flanges. I put a nut on the end and line it up between the flanges, then use two wrenches to 'loosen' the nut, which pushes the two flanges apart just enough to line up the holes. Once it's on, there's never been a problem. I actually replaced my 2/3 header once because I was tired of that routine, and the replacement (used) was the same way.Poorsche44 wrote: Fri Mar 06, 2026 1:35 pm Hey everyone, I’m having some trouble lining up my headers to the block during a head gasket repair. For the life of me I can’t get the header to line up to the studs, and I’m wondering if my headers are actually just warped? The studs don’t look crooked and I’m baffled as to how this happened
It is unfortunately the 1-4 header that isn’t spaced properly to the block. Off the top of my head I don’t remember if it’s spaced too far apart or too close together. I can’t get any photos right now but I can tomorrow morning.
‘83 Platinum N/A 944
-
Tom
- Site Admin
- Posts: 8951
- Joined: Fri Jun 25, 2021 2:04 pm
- Location: Silicon Valley, CA
- Has thanked: 936 times
- Been thanked: 4016 times
- Contact:
On the turbo, that's the easy one because it has a flexible accordion section. I though the #4 flange had a slotted hole on yours? If my experience is any guide, it comes down to getting enough leverage on it -- pushing or prying somehow -- to move it a very small amount -- maybe a millimeter or two max. I always pull the studs, as I find it easier to push the headers into place that way. If you bolt the 2/3 header tight, and one of the 1/4 flanges, you can use my trick to push the remaining a 1/4 flange against a 2/3 flange. If you need to pull it in, you can put a band clamp around them and tighten. Of course, if it's way off, you risk cracking something...Poorsche44 wrote: Fri Mar 06, 2026 6:09 pm It is unfortunately the 1-4 header that isn’t spaced properly to the block. Off the top of my head I don’t remember if it’s spaced too far apart or too close together. I can’t get any photos right now but I can tomorrow morning.
Yes, the #4 is slotted but the other hole still doesn’t want to line up. My plan was to pry against it but I don’t know how much force can be applied on them before they start to crack
‘83 Platinum N/A 944
-
Tom
- Site Admin
- Posts: 8951
- Joined: Fri Jun 25, 2021 2:04 pm
- Location: Silicon Valley, CA
- Has thanked: 936 times
- Been thanked: 4016 times
- Contact:
Sample size of one, but I'm able to spread mine an extra mm (maybe 2) without cracking. I would think the 1/4 header would be more more forgiving too. Maybe heat them up a bit too if you can -- even a heat gun might help.Poorsche44 wrote: Fri Mar 06, 2026 7:55 pm Yes, the #4 is slotted but the other hole still doesn’t want to line up. My plan was to pry against it but I don’t know how much force can be applied on them before they start to crack