Clutch Time

[motoken]

Well, after nearly 40 years and 68k miles, the clutch on my 1986 is needing to be replaced.
This car is mostly original, as no major maintenance has ever really been done to it by the former/original owner. I've researched clutch replacement, and see that it is no small job. I'll likely have a pro do it.
The car for me is a toy. I drive it primarily for fun (twisty mountain roads), but see myself eventually using it for HPDEs and AX. I have already upgraded the old suspension with coilovers and would also like to up HP to 270-300 and enhance low end torque.
I'm committed to doing this job "right" the first time, and to support the long term goals for the car: a reliable 1980s hotrod.
So, some questions:
How should I proceed with the clutch? Looking for recommendations.
I have already considered doing the exhaust at the same time. Recommendations?
Any other "while I am in there" recommendations?
Thanks in advance!
Ken

[whalenlg]

See the thread on oil pan gasket - while
I’m in there post.
Based on carpokes member feedback, decided early on that pulling the engine would enable better results in replacing all seals, etc. and yes when I got to the clutch, it made sense to replace it. I never had to drop the transaxle.
Lessons learned - make sure that if you go over estimated budget by 3-5x, you won’t be alarmed.
Allocate 3-4 months of part time work - there will be some parts that have a long lead time
Send your turbo to Evergreen for upgrade - that will help get to your hp goal. Others will give more detailed advice

[Tom]

For 270 to 300 HP, I'd just use the stock pressure plate, flywheel, and cup disk. Don't use the original disk with the 4 helper springs. The only things those springs help are mechanics who get paid to do clutch jobs after the springs pop out and trash the whole clutch. You might consider doing it yourself. I've done it several times on jack stands and it's not 'that' bad. It's the only way to know everything is done to spec without any cut corners... Time is money to a pro mechanic, so it's hard for them to take the time to fix iffy stuff encountered along the way (and, if they do, the price can keep going up and up and up....). CV joints and TT bearings are the most obvious while you're in there items, though with 68k miles, yours may have tons of life left. Good time to take a long hard look at the speed and ref sensor wires too. Notch the bellhousing if you're a believer (I am)? Fuel filter is easier with the tranny out. Fill the tranny mount with urethane? Refresh the shifter linkage bushings? All the clutch ancillaries -- guide tube, fork, hydraulics, pilot bearing, etc. New flywheel and CV bolts...? New foam under the shifter?

[RedMeanzGo]

Rear Main Seal replacement should go without saying...

[motoken]

Thanks for all the great info. I think i will reach out to Jason at Paragon for some advice. He was a great source for helping me set up the suspension on the car, and it seems like he has some good clutch options available on his site.
Keep the suggestions coming!
Ken