What brand cheese head socket did you use? As long as it's the same grade, size and thread pitch you can use a hex bolt on therePaul M wrote: Fri Feb 17, 2023 5:43 pm I've got the same problem. I really appreciate this thread. I'll attempt this fix tomorrow. Just wondering what's the best way to avoid the issue?
I started torquing in a new bolt (after seal replacement) with a 6-point 8mm and could feel it start to slip. It hasn't totally stripped, but I swear it had that terrible mushy feeling around the 35-40 ft lb range... still got 10 to go
Is a 12 point necessary? Seems odd these are so easily damaged. Any advice appreciated.
Paul
New member with Cam Bolt Issues
It's the replacement bolt from 944 online. Looks identical to the used one I took out. For the $10 I think I'll buy a triple square and go from there. Thanks for the reply.
P.
P.
Last edited by Paul M on Sun Feb 19, 2023 4:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Triple square necessary for CV axle removal too. Get one while you're at it that works for that.
Also do the removal and and install on the car with the timing belt on it. Easiest way to.
Also do the removal and and install on the car with the timing belt on it. Easiest way to.
Porsche 944S2 5MT '91
BMW E39 540iT 6MT '00
Mercedes-Benz W201 190E 2.6 5MT '89
IG: @stitch2k1
BMW E39 540iT 6MT '00
Mercedes-Benz W201 190E 2.6 5MT '89
IG: @stitch2k1
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StaceyQ944
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Porsche upgraded the bolt from a hex to a triple square sometime back in the day. I could be wrong but I think it was their solution to keep people from over tightening and breaking the bolt in the cam or stripping the cam nose threads. Someone else might be able to correct me on that if I’m wrong.Paul M wrote: Fri Feb 17, 2023 5:43 pm I've got the same problem. I really appreciate this thread. I'll attempt this fix tomorrow. Just wondering what's the best way to avoid the issue?
I started torquing in a new bolt (after seal replacement) with a 6-point 8mm and could feel it start to slip. It hasn't totally stripped, but I swear it had that terrible mushy feeling around the 35-40 ft lb range... still got 10 to go
Is a 12 point necessary? Seems odd these are so easily damaged. Any advice appreciated.
Paul
The solution isn’t a great one. Luckily you don’t have to take it off much. The best way to keep from stripping that bolt head is to use a good quality triple square socket, clean the old bolt head out REAL well and tap on the socket while in the bolt a few times to seat the tool and wake the bolt up. Be sure your wrench/ ratchet stays square to the bolt head and apply even steady pressure. I suggest using a long breaker bar here. It will give you good torque and leverage so you can focus less on strength and more on keeping the tool and socket square to the bolt.
NEVER use an impact here!
NEVER use any thread locker here!
Once the bolt is out, you will need to replace it. This is also recommended by Porsche every time you remove that bolt. It keeps the head and the bolt stretch in good working order.
I now keep an extra NEW cam bolt on hand just in case I need to remove the one in the car.
I barely managed to get the bolt out, but it came. I purchased the proper triple square drive and torqued to 50 ft-lbs. I'm not a fan of using a standard hex head as it got me in trouble. However all is ok now.
That's pretty much what I try first, but I use my 3/8 M12 impact. If the cam bolt isn't corroded in there horribly it brrrts it out easily. No counter-hold necessary.
Porsche 944S2 5MT '91
BMW E39 540iT 6MT '00
Mercedes-Benz W201 190E 2.6 5MT '89
IG: @stitch2k1
BMW E39 540iT 6MT '00
Mercedes-Benz W201 190E 2.6 5MT '89
IG: @stitch2k1
