Steering lock/ignition switch problem.

[Latitude48]

I purchased a "nano" sized swivel ratcheting tool that hold 1/4" bits: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DVV76J5M?re ... title&th=1. It's very well made and features a 90 tooth mechanism; it's about 2-1/4" long.

As you can see, my screw is a slotted variety, not Phillips PH1 like others have said they had. Porsche lists them in the PET, N 014 122 17, and they are available for a buck and change. Porsche says they are fillister head, but mine don't seem to have a very deep slot, so maybe what's available now is better since the part number has been superseded. Guess I'll order a few and see what I get. I used a slotted bit marked 9/32, which was just the right size.

I haven't attempted to remove the lower screw yet as I think it's going to be even more difficult to get access.

[blade7]

Nice screwdriver, I did wonder about getting the screws back in too. But it's been done before, so obviously it's do-able.

[Latitude48]

Nice screwdriver, I did wonder about getting the screws back in too. But it's been done before, so obviously it's do-able.

Ah, yes, getting them back in might be tricky. I was thinking that maybe a drop of superglue could hold the screw to the bit to make that task easier.

[blade7]

If it isn't already, you could magnetize the bit or screw too.

[Latitude48]

I managed to get this switch changed today so it should be good for another 30 years!

As I previously said I used a nano-sized piveting ratchet wrench for the top slotted screw. For the bottom one I used a 1/4" bit holder with slotted driver, a 3" extension, a universal joint, a 1/4" to 3/8" adapter and a small 3/8" ratchet to get this one out from the bottom. I was able to get my left hand down in the area of the screw and then guide the bit into place and surprisingly it came out without any issue.

For installation I used M4x8 allen head cap screws. For the bottom screw I used some "museum wax" to hold the screw in the new switch. For the top screw I used the wax to hold the screw to a 1/4" socket with an integrated M3 bit. With a small 1/4" "speed fitting" on the end I was able to get it started and screwed in from the top, then finished tightening from below with the swivel, extension, etc. I also used that combination from the bottom to get the bottom screw installed.

The whole process was pretty frustrating... like any job on a 944, ha,ha.

#$5 *&@$)%: changing the ignition switch did NOT fix the no-start issue. Oh well, at least I know I have a new ignition switch. Not sure why I didn't check before, but with the door open when I turn the key and it doesn't crank I can hear the solenoid click once. Not sure what's up with that as this remanufactured Bosch SR0439X (high torque) starter only has about 1000 miles on it, but is about 5 years old. It's always worked perfectly until recently. I don't think the battery is bad, but I can try jumping with a new one, which I happen to have, and see if that makes any difference. A frustrating job just got more frustrating. I suppose it could be a questionable battery ground. Don't know, but I have a new set of cables from Porsche I could install.

On a side note... a 944 runs just fine without an instrument cluster

[blade7]

Good job, glad you got there in the end. Just wonder if it would have been easier to remove the security bolts and take out the steering lock though.