Carpokes Porsche Forum

1988 944 Base, with option M474: Koni yellow sport struts.
I have what I guess is called bump steer, when i go over a bump the steering wheel shakes. I noticed that the passenger side front strut has oil all over it.
I jacked up the car and am trying to check ball joints, control arm bushings and tie rods.

I assume I'll have to fix the strut, but I don't know of that's the cause of the bump steer. Its confusing what my options for repair/replace. Can I repair them with the koni hack inserts I have read about? I was also considering getting a used one just to get me through the year since I might sell it next year.

How do check the rest of the suspension parts? I tried the 3 and 9 oclock wheel test, but the steering wheel doesnt perfectly lock in place, so i see the motion actually at the steering wheel. I tried the 12 and 6 oclock wheel test, and I feel a little play, but I cant tell where it is coming from.
thanks,
Howdo

A blown shock will cause that steering wheel shake, yes. I would replace them both with Koni 1414 inserts (or at least the one if you are selling). Relatively simple & easy; if you have spring compressors and a hack saw, you're good.

Wow the inserts are expensive these days.. but if you keep the car, Koni will replace those inserts when they start leaking. They just replaced mine after 14 years of daily driving. Make sure you generously oil or anti-seize them before inserting!! You or the next person will be very thankful.

To check the rest, you are basically doing a front end safety. Off-load the wheels & take a crowbar to gently pry around various connections like ball joints and the places where the A-Arm connects to the body. There's a difference between slight rubber movement (normal) and worn-out loose connection.

9 & 3 is difficult to discern as you say since the steering wheel moves and the steering rack connection might also be loose. But, once you know what a worn tie rod feels like, you'll get it. Try watching: if bad, the tie rod will move before the steering wheel or rack connection

The tapered wheel bearing will always have a very slight play at 12 & 6. There's difference between very slight and too loose. You might be able to adjust a bit of too-loose; look up adjusting the wheel bearings. If it's just a super slight thing, you're probably fine.

Start with the strut. Surprisingly easy to remove (using spring compressors which you can get cheap these days)