Header Removal Process

[t36]

I have at least one leak in my headers.
I searched this forum and didn't really find much in detail for a removal process. Across other forums I have found posts suggesting everything from needing to remove the cam tower, loosen the engine mount and jack up the passenger side, coolant pipe off or just unbolted.

I have removed all 8 studs, and the 6 bolts at the collector. I removed the Allen bolts holding the coolant pipe and reinstalled the bolts to keep proper tension on the gasket.

I loosened the passenger engine mount and jacked up the header side of the motor.

I still can't even get header 2/3 out. The tabs of the heat shield its wrapped in fowl on the strut tower. Honestly, without the built in shields it would probably squeeze by ok. I really don't want to scratch up the engine bay as its quite nice.
What's everyone's method for removing these in 2026?

Do I need to remove the coolant pipe entirely? I was also thinking of clamping the hose from the heater core and quickly plugging the pipe and moving it up and out of the way with minimal coolant loss.

Are you pulling the 2/3 up between the engine and the coolant pipe? or between the strut tower and the pipe. Any tips would be very helpful! thanks Carpokes!

[944m3]

I don’t have any specific advice. I think I remember I had to remove the heat shields and water pipe. I do remember bloody knuckles. It sucks but they will come out.

But wow that is a clean engine bay!

[zooklm1]

It has been a while since I had done this job. As I remember, I moved the coolant pipe. I think I had loosened the crossover but not 100% sure (but will likely need to do so when installing the replacement manifold). I think it helps to remove some of the exhaust studs to give space/clearance. I think I pulled out/put in one section at a time. If your exhaust side engine mount has collapsed, the clearance is further diminished.

[Tom]

Yeah unless you remove the crossover and take them out the bottom, that coolant pipe pretty much needs to come out. I usually just drain the coolant as I always worry clamps will crush/damage rubber hoses. Yours look young and healthy though, so maybe they're ok being clamped...

[t36]

Yeah unless you remove the crossover and take them out the bottom, that coolant pipe pretty much needs to come out. I usually just drain the coolant as I always worry clamps will crush/damage rubber hoses. Yours look young and healthy though, so maybe they're ok being clamped...

awesome! thanks everyone! Out it comes.
I'll get some temporary hose plugs machined. Clamp the hose, remove it, plug it, and unclamp. All new hoses, so 3 seconds of clamping doesn't scare me!

[t36]

For any future google searchers or anyone who digs up this post in the future:

The headers are very very easily removed once the coolant pipe is out of the way. Make sure you remove every last stud.

I didn't drain my cooling system. I will need to bleed it again now but It this sure saved a huge amount of time.
1) I used hose pinch pliers on the hose from the heater core to the pipe. Clamp them fairly close to the end of the pipe.
2) I pulled the hose off and quickly put a rubber pipe cap over the pipe. A 5/8 rubber cap fits great.
3) I inserted a 3/4" pex brass barbed hose plug into the hose with the pinch pliers on it. I then removed the pinch pliers as I don't want the hose sitting pinched.
4) The pipe can now be angled up and out of the way.
5) the headers can now be removed and come out 2/3 and then 1/4.

overall I lost maybe a table spoon or 2 of coolant as I pinched the hose right near the end of the pipe and I was quick with my thumb to cover the hole in the pipe while I got the pipe cap on it.