eccs19 wrote: Sat May 09, 2026 8:56 am
Got the car. Line from tank to pump wasn’t flowing. It’s been replaced along with the fuel pump. (Bosch) fresh fuel is now getting to the fuel rail. New speed and reference sensor. (Gapped) injectors removed, cleaned and confirmed flowing. New orings and filters in the injectors. Car turns over and will fire for a second or two, but that’s it. My observations are that when cranking, no tach bounce, but when it fires up, tach runs. New relay. Also jumped relay tried as well. New jboot as old one was toast. Have also done a compression test and all around 175. I do not have a pressure gauge. But cracking the line, I get plenty of gas squirting out.
Those symptoms would make me first suspect a bad air-fuel ratio, with the most common causes being a big vacuum leak or a bad AFM signal.
Backing up a bit, you 'should' see tach bounce when cranking, but the fact that it fires then dies suggests you do have an ignition pulse. "Bounce" is a misleading term really -- it's often not more than a tiny twitch. You can eliminate all doubt by pulling the #1 spark plug wire and checking to see if it sparks against the intake manifold (you'll need to pull the metal part out so it sits a mm or two from the intake, or use a screwdriver to extend it). If you have spark, you can forget about the speed/ref sensors, DME relay, DME itself, coil, etc. I have to believe you have spark since it fires up and dies, but no harm checking if you see no movement at all on the tach when you crank.
Assuming you have spark, I'd check closely for big vacuum leaks -- on old abandoned cars, a big split under a hose wouldn't be a surprise. A smoke test would help if nothing is obvious. If no vacuum leaks, then I'd test the AFM. The little carbon traces wear out and send bad signals, and the harness wiring can crack and fray. We have an AFM test guide
here. Yours is the 12 volt version I believe, but the same basic procedure applies. Be sure to test at the DME connector to start, without removing the AFM, as that tests both the harness and AFM itself.
If none of that is it, it's also possible your fuel pressure regulator is bad. Check the vacuum hose going to it for wet fuel or strong smell of gasoline. When they go really bad, they leak gas into that hose. Absent that, you'd need to check fuel pressure with a proper gauge.
Could be just about anything on a rescue car (e.g., bad temp sensor or wiring, fuel contamination, stuck AFM or idle stabilizer, rats nests or blockages somewhere, etc.) , but the things above are my odds-on favorites...