Hello,
I have a 951 car thats clean. The car cranks, has tach bounce, alarm system is jumped, New speed and reference sensors, new cap and rotor, new spark plug cables. new F9T sport DME, new F9T DME relay. The car wont start.
I have new spark plugs that I haven't installed and was planning on changing the ignition coil as well because I cant find out why its not starting. Is anyone here in the NYC area that could help me get it started? Im willing to pay for the help if necessarry, I just want to get it started.
Pics:
Anyone in NYC area willing to help me get a 951 started?
- Tom
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Tach bounce probably points away from speed and ref sensors, but did you look under the boots on the engine harness side when you replaced the sensors? Probably not your issue, but I mention it because a lot of times people replace the sensors and think they can check that area off their list.
Did the car previously start with all the same parts, and then just stop? Or have you replace parts since the no-start started?
Have you checked for fuel and spark? That would be step 1.
Does the car show any signs of life -- popping or spitting to start -- or just cranking with so signs of starting at all?
Have you tried bypassing the KLR? Pull the KLR connector off, run a jumper between pins 9 and 16 in the KLR connector with a short wire and a couple of skinny spade connectors, and leave the connector off with that jumper in place. See if the engine starts.
The injectors have the same style connectors as the speed and ref sensors, and can suffer the same frayed wires inside. If any one connector is shorted out, then none of the injectors will fire. Lazy test is to rattle the injector wires while you crank, looking for signs of life. To really test, pull the 35-pin dme connector off and check for continuity between the two pins in each connector (to see if they are shorted), then ohm them out to their pins in the dme connector (to see if there are any breaks/open wires).
p.s., great looking car!
Did the car previously start with all the same parts, and then just stop? Or have you replace parts since the no-start started?
Have you checked for fuel and spark? That would be step 1.
Does the car show any signs of life -- popping or spitting to start -- or just cranking with so signs of starting at all?
Have you tried bypassing the KLR? Pull the KLR connector off, run a jumper between pins 9 and 16 in the KLR connector with a short wire and a couple of skinny spade connectors, and leave the connector off with that jumper in place. See if the engine starts.
The injectors have the same style connectors as the speed and ref sensors, and can suffer the same frayed wires inside. If any one connector is shorted out, then none of the injectors will fire. Lazy test is to rattle the injector wires while you crank, looking for signs of life. To really test, pull the 35-pin dme connector off and check for continuity between the two pins in each connector (to see if they are shorted), then ohm them out to their pins in the dme connector (to see if there are any breaks/open wires).
p.s., great looking car!
- Tom
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The injector connectors are easier to replace than the speed and reference wires, if that helps. Looking at the schematic, you wouldn't think a short on one would short them all out, but they all connect to the same driver inside the DME so a short on one is a short on all. Sounds like you should replace them even if not the source of your current problem, although I'd look for a short with a multimeter first, just to know if it's worth jumping the KLR first. Read all about those connectors, and where to get the parts, here:
viewtopic.php?t=565
viewtopic.php?t=565
Since you’ve got tach bounce, the DME is getting signal, so focus on fuel and spark. Check for spark at the plugs pull one, ground it, and crank. If no spark, suspect the coil or ignition module. If you have spark, verify fuel pressure and injector pulse. Worth paying a pro to diagnose if you’re out of ideas.
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chrischrischris
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It's pretty easy to crack the nut at the end of the fuel rail to see if any fuel is getting up there. Fuel pump might be bad. I'm in CT.
So far Ive replaced these parts to try to get the car running.
1. New F9T Sport DME
2. New F9T solid state DME Relay
3. New Injectors
4. New rotor and cap
5. New Beru cables
6. New Fuel pressure regulator
7. New Bosch Fuel pump
8. New Fuel filter
9. New fuel filter and fuel pump lines
10. New AGM Battery ( Now dead after so many attemps)
11. New Spark Plugs
12. Bypassed factory alarm system.
13. New speed and reference sensors properly gapped (has tach bounce)
14. cleaned intake manifold and throttle body.
15. Verified ignition coil is working.
There are other cosmetic things I've done to the car but for some reason after all these parts being replaced the car STILL WONT START. It cranks only. I had a couple of mechanics come help me change some parts and verify the ohms at the ecu. We weren't able to get it to start.
The harness seems ok, I don't know what else I could do and im puzzled as to why it wont start.
In the meantime I cleaned it up pretty well. Adjusted the front bumper spring clips so it lines up correctly with the nose panel and added some new zinc plated hardware in the engine bay, hood pads, adjusted the panel gaps. New Shifter and steering wheel, Cleaned out the HVAC and added a new cowl. Still waiting on new sunroof seals and some other items ive ordered. The car looks nice and people take pictures of it regularly but I would love to actually drive it at some point!
Updated pics:
1. New F9T Sport DME
2. New F9T solid state DME Relay
3. New Injectors
4. New rotor and cap
5. New Beru cables
6. New Fuel pressure regulator
7. New Bosch Fuel pump
8. New Fuel filter
9. New fuel filter and fuel pump lines
10. New AGM Battery ( Now dead after so many attemps)
11. New Spark Plugs
12. Bypassed factory alarm system.
13. New speed and reference sensors properly gapped (has tach bounce)
14. cleaned intake manifold and throttle body.
15. Verified ignition coil is working.
There are other cosmetic things I've done to the car but for some reason after all these parts being replaced the car STILL WONT START. It cranks only. I had a couple of mechanics come help me change some parts and verify the ohms at the ecu. We weren't able to get it to start.
The harness seems ok, I don't know what else I could do and im puzzled as to why it wont start.
In the meantime I cleaned it up pretty well. Adjusted the front bumper spring clips so it lines up correctly with the nose panel and added some new zinc plated hardware in the engine bay, hood pads, adjusted the panel gaps. New Shifter and steering wheel, Cleaned out the HVAC and added a new cowl. Still waiting on new sunroof seals and some other items ive ordered. The car looks nice and people take pictures of it regularly but I would love to actually drive it at some point!
Updated pics:
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Many years ago I did a full tune up and t-belt change on my 951. It then would not start even though it cranked. Turns out I had installed the ignition cap 180 degrees off / upside down. 
Boston-area, MA
