"Bearing Case" M10 X 60mm stud

[RedMeanzGo]

Wondering if anyone has come across this. I was removing my balance belt idler to change the belt, and instead of the nut coming off the stud, the stud came out of the “Bearing Case”. I dont know what to do. I have since probably destroyed the stud trying to get the nut off, and can’t seem to find a new one that matches anywhere. Even if I did, how would I get the stud back into the Bearing Case tight enough to hold the idler and nut in place ? It looks like it would just keep turning until it went all the way through the case. Any insight would be much appreciated !

[Tom]

I've never seen that happen, but the nut must have seized on the stud and pulled it out. Are the threads in carrier still ok? You can test by threading in an M10 bolt to make sure it's all ok. If so, then you just need to find (or make) a replacement stud.

I have an old carrier I'm looking at and I don't see any signs that the stud was staked in place or otherwise locked in. Most studs just screw in finger tight and rely on the nut to create the tension. I strongly suspect this stud is glued in place with red Loctite, however, so it's not always spinning out like it did on yours. Do you see any pink crusty power on the threads of the stud or in the threaded hole? That would pretty much confirm it was glued in place. If so, I'd just clean out the thread and screw in a new stud with lots of red loctite. You can give it a little cinch by double-nutting it, but I wouldn't try to torque it super tight -- studs aren't designed for that.

It may be hard to find an exact match for that stud. I measure it to have 20mm of thread in the hole, a 10mm shoulder (smooth part) and 27mm above the shoulder. I don't think all those dimensions are critical though, as long as it stands about 37mm tall when screwed in. The yellow zinc and torque spec all but guarantee it is a regular 8.8 strength stud. You might need to find something close enough and/or cut something down to the same size. Can you see if the threads are the same pitch on both ends? Sometimes, they are different, but places like Bel-Metric sell studs that way too. Here are some possibilities...

https://belmetric.com/m10-double-ended- ... S10X47DYLW
https://belmetric.com/m10x1-5-m10x1-25- ... 1.25X55BLK

Worst case, these carriers are about $100 on eBay, so you could always just get a replacement.

Here's a pick of the back side of the factory-assembled piece, showing what looks to be a normal stud in a hole. The shoulder stops it from turning further in.

balance-shaft-carrier.jpg (1.02 MiB) Viewed 501 times

[RedMeanzGo]

Tom, thank you for taking your time to provide this information ! You’re the best !! I was worried about every single thing you brought up. So, the threads on the bearing case are fine, although I do not see any remnants of the thread locker, I think I’ll use some when I put the new stud in. The threads are the same pitch on both sides. There is a place local to me, they may have something close. I’m going to go check them out today, if not I’ll definitely order one from one of the links you provided. Thanks again for all of your insight !

[Tom]

Tom, thank you for taking your time to provide this information ! You’re the best !! I was worried about every single thing you brought up. So, the threads on the bearing case are fine, although I do not see any remnants of the thread locker, I think I’ll use some when I put the new stud in. The threads are the same pitch on both sides. There is a place local to me, they may have something close. I’m going to go check them out today, if not I’ll definitely order one from one of the links you provided. Thanks again for all of your insight !

Glad it was helpful. I'm a little old school and think the forum platform allows for a more complete discussion of problems like this vs most of the new tldr social media platforms -- and posts like this will live on in the google search index for the next guy this happens to even if years from now! Tell your friends -- long live Carpokes!

I can't think of any reason NOT to loctite it in place. It's not like you ever want it to come out, and most block studs are loctite'd. I'd say go for it!

[Tom]

By the way, not that I'd recommend this, other than a last resort, but one time I found myself in need of an impossible to find adjuster bolt for my old Mercedes. I had one from another car that was too short, so had to improvise. Been running strong for 5 years now. Where there's a will, there's a way

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[RedMeanzGo]

Just wanted to follow up on this post, and thank you again Tom for all your help ! I ended up using a 8.8 M10, 1.5, 50mm yellow zinc stud from Belmetric, and a good bit of the Red Loctite just like you suggested.

[Tom]

Looks great. Let's us know when it's all back together and running like a top.