Hi Folks - my first post ...
Picked up an '88 Turbo S a few weeks ago that was sitting for unknown # of years (114k w/ a broken odometer). I drove it 200 miles back home (with my fingers crossed) and later found a fuel line leak which I fixed last week w/ Lindsey Racing fuel-hoses.
It's time to do the timing belt before I even start it again...
I see kits online, (w/ water pump) (eg; 944online.com)
Is there a link to a comprehensive list of the additional items I COULD replace during a belt change? With an older engine, I might as well replace any other seals/gears, etc while I've got the belts off...
I planned to get the kit: Timing and balance-shaft belts, pulleys, tensioners, water pump and associated seals).
What about:
- other seals on the front of the engine?
- oil pump gear (so I heard)?
- etc?
For the specialized tools, what else do I need:
- timing belt tensioning tool (I will either buy it from Carpokes or will 3Dprint it)
- flywhel lock.
- anything else?
Thanks!
What else to
- blueline
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I'm not the one to answer your questions but others here will be able to assist you.
Meanwhile, Welcome to Carpokes!
Meanwhile, Welcome to Carpokes!
Tim
Current:
'26 911 Carrera S - PTS Verde British Racing Green
'24 Cayenne S - Algarve Blue Metallic
'21 718 Cayman GTS - Black
'22 911 Turbo S - Carmine Red
'21 718 Cayman GT4 - White
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Current:
'26 911 Carrera S - PTS Verde British Racing Green
'24 Cayenne S - Algarve Blue Metallic
'21 718 Cayman GTS - Black
'22 911 Turbo S - Carmine Red
'21 718 Cayman GT4 - White
'11 GMC 1500 Quad Cab 4x4 - Black
Musik-Stadt Region
- P_Coastal
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- Tom
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Welcome to Carpokes! Congrats on the Turbo S -- pics encouraged! Is it a Silver Rosa?
In additional to timing and balance shaft belts, and all associated rollers and seals, I'd be sure to get a LASO (or PCNA) water pump, as some of the cheaper versions have had short lives in the past. The rear balance shaft seals (o-rings) are common leakers, so worth considering. You'll also need loctite 574 if you remove the b/s cover to replace those seals. Be sure to replace the main thermostat too, and consider a lower temp thermostat/fan switch combo. Also be sure to get the tiny second thermostat, its plastic housing, and o-ring for the turbo coolant circuit. If there are any signs of oil seepage, etc., consider changing the cam seals and front oil crank seal. See diagrams and part numbers in the pics below. Good time to change the cap/rotor/wires/plugs too.
@944online can set you up with everything you need. (And I now see Gruhsy beat me to it....
)
You will also need a balance shaft pin wrench. We have one you can print/make here: https://carpokes.com/viewtopic.php?t=1729
Thin wrenches for the tensioner eccentrics also help, but you can usually limp along with regular tools.
You also need an M10 triple square socket for the cam gear bolt, if you decide to do the seals behind that rear cam gear cover.
You'll need a gear puller for the front crank gear, and maybe one for the cam gear, if you remove those. You 'can' slip the timing belt past the crank gear in front if you aren't replacing the seals behind it, but it's very tight.
In additional to timing and balance shaft belts, and all associated rollers and seals, I'd be sure to get a LASO (or PCNA) water pump, as some of the cheaper versions have had short lives in the past. The rear balance shaft seals (o-rings) are common leakers, so worth considering. You'll also need loctite 574 if you remove the b/s cover to replace those seals. Be sure to replace the main thermostat too, and consider a lower temp thermostat/fan switch combo. Also be sure to get the tiny second thermostat, its plastic housing, and o-ring for the turbo coolant circuit. If there are any signs of oil seepage, etc., consider changing the cam seals and front oil crank seal. See diagrams and part numbers in the pics below. Good time to change the cap/rotor/wires/plugs too.
You will also need a balance shaft pin wrench. We have one you can print/make here: https://carpokes.com/viewtopic.php?t=1729
Thin wrenches for the tensioner eccentrics also help, but you can usually limp along with regular tools.
You also need an M10 triple square socket for the cam gear bolt, if you decide to do the seals behind that rear cam gear cover.
You'll need a gear puller for the front crank gear, and maybe one for the cam gear, if you remove those. You 'can' slip the timing belt past the crank gear in front if you aren't replacing the seals behind it, but it's very tight.
- V951S
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Thanks @gruhsy . I dug a little using your reference and found 944Online has a "Stage 3" kit which includes the water-pump kit, timing-belt kit and the front-seal kit all in one package.
https://944online.com/new-944-turbo-wat ... age-3.html
@Tom:
- Should I get a 1/2" drive M10 Triple Square Socket or is 3/8" drive enough?
- Yes, a Silver Rose. It was repainted (supposedly in the same color), but the 2nd job was poor and has faded along with peeling clearcoat from sitting outside.) I was replacing the rear hatch seal yesterday and found a spot with the beautiful original color underneath.
Though not completely original, it came with documentation going back to new. Thus, I am bringing it back to its original spec, including the awesome plaid interior.
https://944online.com/new-944-turbo-wat ... age-3.html
@Tom:
- Should I get a 1/2" drive M10 Triple Square Socket or is 3/8" drive enough?
- Yes, a Silver Rose. It was repainted (supposedly in the same color), but the 2nd job was poor and has faded along with peeling clearcoat from sitting outside.) I was replacing the rear hatch seal yesterday and found a spot with the beautiful original color underneath.
Though not completely original, it came with documentation going back to new. Thus, I am bringing it back to its original spec, including the awesome plaid interior.
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'88 944 Turbo S
- V951S
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Coolant and oil looked good fortunately. Thanks.944m3 wrote: Mon Feb 26, 2024 9:54 am Double check coolant and oil for any discoloration. This will confirm if head gasket and oil cooler housing orings and gaskets are ok.
'88 944 Turbo S
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Get a half inch triple square for the cam nut. It can be a real bear, and often needs to be drilled out. If you need to drill it, fear not. The head is shallow and pops right off. A good friend, @Crazy Eddie is the original owner of his Silver Rose car, so we have an inside line on originality for that car if helpful. We did an article about him and the car in the June 2015 issue of Panorama, which you can find online at the link below if you are a PCA member:
https://ww2.pca.org/panoreader/jun-2015/#page=80
(And if you are not a member, you might considering joining!)
https://ww2.pca.org/panoreader/jun-2015/#page=80
(And if you are not a member, you might considering joining!)
