Brake Line plugs

[Cruise98]

Does anyone know where to get temporary plugs for the brake lines? I am about to remove the TB carrier and do not like the constant drips and puddles while the lines are open. I always manage to get it in my hair, eyes, on hoses, cords etc. Thanks.

[Tom]

Depending on where you break the lines, Belmetric sells these.

https://belmetric.com/brake-plug-m10x1- ... FrEALw_wcB

I have a set of silicon plugs for sandblasting and powder coating, and have used them on many a dripping line...

https://www.amazon.com/High-Temp-Silico ... 2910&psc=1

[four0four]

I was replacing bleeders at the same time (as brake work), and just used those (granted, you need to be plugging a female connection).

[Cruise98]

Thanks. They have yellow zinc fasteners too. Of course, I find this out after I finished assembling an engine with clean, but ugly hardware.

[four0four]

I went that route, it was not particularly cheap. Can tell ya it looks great though (and is entirely out of sight/obscured by original and ratty plastics/hoses) - next time

[Cruise98]

At some point you have to stop spending money!

[michaelmount123]

Yellow Chromate plating of your old bolts and brackets is cheap if you can still find someone who does it. I believe EPA has put an end to much of this.

[cda951]

An easy trick is to use a brake pedal prop and depress the pedal about 3/4-1", or whatever distance is necessary to move the master cylinder pistons to the exact position in which the cup seals block the compensating ports to prevent fluid draining from the reservoir---this is the same as holding your finger at the end of a drinking straw to keep liquid from draining out. Any further piston travel pressurizes the brake hydraulic system, which would also cause fluid to leak out of any open lines.

A purpose-made adjustable brake pedal prop that bears against the steering wheel or driver's seat cushion is an extremely useful tool, and I recommend that any serious DIYer should invest in one. I use them all the time at my shop for things like checking brake lights, holding engine RPM steady via the throttle pedal, checking if full throttle is being achieved at the throttle versus the pedal stop, and for solo clutch bleeding of an earlier 944 via the hard line connection at the firewall.

[dr bob]

In a, um, pinch, I use short vacuum hose sections over the flared ends of hardline, and use a handy hemostat to close it off. Otherwise there are 'vacuum caps' that are handier.

To @cda951's point on holding a pedal, I found an adjustable prop tool used by a copier service guy a couple decades ago now. Extends and holds position, and a little wedge washer gets pressed to release. Similar to this https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool ... 24&sr=8-44.

It's almost as easy to use a short piece of almost anything, and set it between a pedal and the front of the power seat. Move the seat fore or aft as needed to get a pedal position I need.

[ROB III]

In a, um, pinch, I use short vacuum hose sections over the flared ends of hardline, and use a handy hemostat to close it off. Otherwise there are 'vacuum caps' that are handier.

To @cda951's point on holding a pedal, I found an adjustable prop tool used by a copier service guy a couple decades ago now. Extends and holds position, and a little wedge washer gets pressed to release. Similar to this https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool ... 24&sr=8-44.

It's almost as easy to use a short piece of almost anything, and set it between a pedal and the front of the power seat. Move the seat fore or aft as needed to get a pedal position I need.

Moving the seat fore and aft as needed for fine tuning is clever!