89 951 engine overhaul
- Tom
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That TIG is looks great to me! Welding an O2 port is not a beginner's job either!
- four0four
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You're missing the other side where I couldn't get a comfortable angle and let the arc wander a little! It's probably time for something with HF start.
But thanks! I've had loads of practice uh, munging together an exhaust for the NA some years back
But thanks! I've had loads of practice uh, munging together an exhaust for the NA some years back
Used 2nd oil cooler?
Flush and clean.
Rinse and repeat.
Contamination in a used cooler not good.
Just in case you hadn’t thought of that already
Flush and clean.
Rinse and repeat.
Contamination in a used cooler not good.
Just in case you hadn’t thought of that already
four0four wrote: Tue May 31, 2022 9:04 pm Still alive out here - Been dragging my feet assembling the blast cabinet (though I've got a cool printed dust funnel I can't wait to try)! Eyeballed and welded up the WBO2 bung while I had the stuff out from pulling the clutch fork: bung.jpg
Judge me not too harshly - It's a janky TIG setup built on a stick box. At least I got backpurge working!
Otherwise, ordering another oil pump housing and...still...trying to get C&D to give me a date. Casually poking around for alternatives but not super optimistic. A one-shot job must be small fry in this day & area...
Edit: Oh! And I figured out my oil cooler plans - just for now going with a 2nd stock one, mounted mirrored to and in series with the original. Happily, Setrab's 22mm to AN-12 fittings are a perfect fit![]()
- four0four
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I had, but it's good to be reminded. I've a list of shops for coolers/rad/intercooler that I gotta chat to. Speaking of shops, still back-and-forth trying to get a time from C&D, they're busy as hell. Millennium Tech is looking tempting - Does anyone know if they'd just do a bore + alusil treatment/etch? Otherwise I guess I could harass Mahle for Nikasil compatible rings.gruhsy wrote: Wed Jun 01, 2022 6:25 am Used 2nd oil cooler?
Flush and clean.
Rinse and repeat.
Contamination in a used cooler not good.
Just in case you hadn’t thought of that already
On a slightly different track (I swear I cleaned the other side of this engine...) - I've modeled up some AOS -> JIC-12 (my tolerance are nowhere near AN
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- Tom
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Do you want to use Mahle pistons in particular? I'd think one of the nice parts of going to Nikasil is that it opens the doors to other pistons/rings?
As for the catch can idea -- nice work on the adapter and great resolution for what I assume is an FDM printer?
I drilled my AOS when I put in my catch can, and still don't catch all that much. But I drilled it because no matter what else I tried, heavy boost would blow my dip stick up out of its tube. Actual vacuum would do it, but if you rely on engine vacuum (?) I'd be worried about unmetered air throwing off the tune. Also, if you plug the bottom AOS port, how will you get oil in the motor?
As for the catch can idea -- nice work on the adapter and great resolution for what I assume is an FDM printer?
I drilled my AOS when I put in my catch can, and still don't catch all that much. But I drilled it because no matter what else I tried, heavy boost would blow my dip stick up out of its tube. Actual vacuum would do it, but if you rely on engine vacuum (?) I'd be worried about unmetered air throwing off the tune. Also, if you plug the bottom AOS port, how will you get oil in the motor?
- Latitude48
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I talked to Millenium about boring/honing Alusil and they do not provide that service. You are looking at 30 days or so turnaround time to get your block bored and Nikasil treated.four0four wrote: Sat Jul 02, 2022 7:23 pm I had, but it's good to be reminded. I've a list of shops for coolers/rad/intercooler that I gotta chat to. Speaking of shops, still back-and-forth trying to get a time from C&D, they're busy as hell. Millennium Tech is looking tempting - Does anyone know if they'd just do a bore + alusil treatment/etch? Otherwise I guess I could harass Mahle for Nikasil compatible rings.
Tom Pultz
- 1989 944 Turbo - Guards Red/Linen
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- 1989 944 Turbo - Guards Red/Linen
- 1990 944 S2 - Guards Red/Black
- 2003 Audi 1.8TQ - Denim Blue/Black
- 2003 Honda Civic Si - Vivid Blue/Black
- 2023 VW Golf R Base - Lapiz Blue/Titan Black
- Tom
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Do you know if they offer compatible pistons/rings to go with their Nikasil bores? Always seems safer to me for the machine shop to bore with the pistons in hand....Latitude48 wrote: Sun Jul 03, 2022 10:37 amI talked to Millenium about boring/honing Alusil and they do not provide that service. You are looking at 30 days or so turnaround time to get your block bored and Nikasil treated.four0four wrote: Sat Jul 02, 2022 7:23 pm I had, but it's good to be reminded. I've a list of shops for coolers/rad/intercooler that I gotta chat to. Speaking of shops, still back-and-forth trying to get a time from C&D, they're busy as hell. Millennium Tech is looking tempting - Does anyone know if they'd just do a bore + alusil treatment/etch? Otherwise I guess I could harass Mahle for Nikasil compatible rings.
- Latitude48
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I don't know if Millennium can provide compatible rings (I didn't ask), but they did tell me that clients use pistons provided by Mahle all the time that were intended for Alusil. The Mahle info at LN Engineering says their pistons will only work with Alusil, but that's probably because of piston ring compatibility.Tom wrote: Sun Jul 03, 2022 10:41 am Do you know if they offer compatible pistons/rings to go with their Nikasil bores? Always seems safer to me for the machine shop to bore with the pistons in hand....
Tom Pultz
- 1989 944 Turbo - Guards Red/Linen
- 1990 944 S2 - Guards Red/Black
- 2003 Audi 1.8TQ - Denim Blue/Black
- 2003 Honda Civic Si - Vivid Blue/Black
- 2023 VW Golf R Base - Lapiz Blue/Titan Black
- 1989 944 Turbo - Guards Red/Linen
- 1990 944 S2 - Guards Red/Black
- 2003 Audi 1.8TQ - Denim Blue/Black
- 2003 Honda Civic Si - Vivid Blue/Black
- 2023 VW Golf R Base - Lapiz Blue/Titan Black
- four0four
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I've already got them, so that's the only rationale.Tom wrote: Sun Jul 03, 2022 10:33 am Do you want to use Mahle pistons in particular? I'd think one of the nice parts of going to Nikasil is that it opens the doors to other pistons/rings?
Something that once was an Ender 3, yepAs for the catch can idea -- nice work on the adapter and great resolution for what I assume is an FDM printer?
Seems like it would be fine to feed it back before any metering? Probably not great for a MAF setup, but MAP or AFM shouldn't mind.I drilled my AOS when I put in my catch can, and still don't catch all that much. But I drilled it because no matter what else I tried, heavy boost would blow my dip stick up out of its tube. Actual vacuum would do it, but if you rely on engine vacuum (?) I'd be worried about unmetered air throwing off the tune. Also, if you plug the bottom AOS port, how will you get oil in the motor?
re: blowing out the dip stick...Doesn't the OE system (mine does, at least) have a one-way valve that vents to atmosphere under boost? I don't know why they didn't just use a one way valve, or plumb things to the pre-turbo intake, but I'm not an automotive engineer
And yeah, closing up the bottom port makes adding oil annoying: You could use the cam tower, or just plumb in a line that goes to a fill port rather than actually plug it completely.
Anyway, machining - I'm just gonna keep harassing local shops in an increasingly wide radius...Or, realistically, further and further down the coast. Not a whole lot inland for some time
- Tom
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I'm a MAF guy, so that was my reference point about the vacuum. I'd think the same would be true with an AFM, but suppose it depends how you plumb it?
As for a crank pop-off valve, at least in the US, there's been a federal regulation since the mid-1960's that crankcase gases be recirculated back into the engine. Most car did this with a PCV valve, but Porsche gave us the AOS plumbing with venturis and restrictors and who knows what else. But ultimately, I think they did do what you say -- plumb it back to the intake just before the turbo....
I can't remember all the details now, but I did try a basic pop-off valve, but the problem was the pressure couldn't get out of the AOS fast enough with the stock opening at the top -- so by the time any valve might open, the dip stick had already popped up. That's when I punted and drilled the top of the AOS....
As for a crank pop-off valve, at least in the US, there's been a federal regulation since the mid-1960's that crankcase gases be recirculated back into the engine. Most car did this with a PCV valve, but Porsche gave us the AOS plumbing with venturis and restrictors and who knows what else. But ultimately, I think they did do what you say -- plumb it back to the intake just before the turbo....
I can't remember all the details now, but I did try a basic pop-off valve, but the problem was the pressure couldn't get out of the AOS fast enough with the stock opening at the top -- so by the time any valve might open, the dip stick had already popped up. That's when I punted and drilled the top of the AOS....
