Oil Pan Gasket - While I'm in there...

[Tom]

I'd probably just prime it the old fashion way. I once bought a 2 x 1/4" flat steel bar and drilled holes in it to brace the crank on the stand. I was trying to undo a stuck pulley bolt, so the torque was no doubt higher than 150 ft lbs., but it was a pain and didn't work. Engine stands aren't that stable, so someone needs to hold everything as you torque. In my case, I literally bent the steel bar (in the flat direction) and still couldn't get the bolt out.

[Tom]

Found an old picture of the bent bar....

crank lock.jpg (189.37 KiB) Viewed 4338 times

[whalenlg]

Wow - I guess I’ll skip past the step of bending large pieces of metal.
Next question - lift the engine with the cross member installed on the engine mounts or bolt it on after the torque tube bolts are in place?

[Black944 turbo]

Based on my recent experience. I would suggest lifting it with the cross member if possible. Saves a lot of hassle with the motor mounts .

[whalenlg]

One more query - the WSM doesn't mention removing the exhaust crossover when pulling the engine. Neither does another detailed post I saw elsewhere.
It would seem to be much easier to install the crossover while the engine is on the stand than under the car.
Any feedback?

[Tom]

Lots of people leave the headers and cross over on for install/removal. I took them off for fear I'd put too much weight on the cross-over, and so that is was less of a shoehorn. That said, if you can do it without damaging anything and have good control to position the motor, I'm sure it's more efficient to install the cross-over first.

[whalenlg]

Engine is finally back in the car - leaving the exhaust crossover on the engine didn't create any major problems. I didn't try to bolt up the frame crossmember until the drive line was seated and loosely bolted.

I did neglect to make sure the steering shaft went through the right space (between the braided oil return and the left side engine mount). Just had to lower engine back down, place the shaft correctly and then raise the engine.

Other tip - since I didn't remove the headlight crossbar, we had to tilt the front of the engine up, raise a little above the spline and then lower the front while seating the spline into the bellhousing/clutch/flywheel/pilot bearing.

Getting everything lined up was a little tricky, but resolved with small adjustments (jack the left side of the oil pan that wasn't level, turn the rear wheel with a gear engaged, etc.) until it slid on to the point where the torque tube bolts would thread in.

[Tom]

Engine is finally back in the car - leaving the exhaust crossover on the engine didn't create any major problems. I didn't try to bolt up the frame crossmember until the drive line was seated and loosely bolted.

I did neglect to make sure the steering shaft went through the right space (between the braided oil return and the left side engine mount). Just had to lower engine back down, place the shaft correctly and then raise the engine.

Other tip - since I didn't remove the headlight crossbar, we had to tilt the front of the engine up, raise a little above the spline and then lower the front while seating the spline into the bellhousing/clutch/flywheel/pilot bearing.

Getting everything lined up was a little tricky, but resolved with small adjustments (jack the left side of the oil pan that wasn't level, turn the rear wheel with a gear engaged, etc.) until it slid on to the point where the torque tube bolts would thread in.

Awesome, congrats!

[whalenlg]

Building things up - ready for oil priming, but before I install the starter, I wanted to bleed the clutch.
I did this before pulling the engine and all was well.

Slave cylinder bolted into the bell housing.

I'm using a motive power bleeding with 7 psi of pressure on the brake fluid reservoir, but I can't get a steady stream of fluid from the slave cylinder tap. I get a somewhat steady stream right after refilling the reservoir, but then it starts spurting mostly air until the motive depressurizes. Repeat refill, re-pressure. Same result. Dropped the front end of the car to make it so that the reservoir can be filled with no air in the front of it. Same result. Clutch on the floor or pulled back by the spring. Same result. I've gone through almost a pint of brake fluid.
Bled a bit of one brake caliper - no issue. Steady stream.
I do get a few drops of brake fluid dripping from the slave when it's spurting.
It just seems like air is getting sucked in somewhere.

Any other ideas or is it time for a new slave cylinder?

[Tom]

I doubt there's anything wrong with the slave. These things can be a pain -- usually are actually. I've had success using a mityvac on the slave AND the motive up top. Or use the motive and have someone press the clutch pedal too. You can also remove the slave, fill it on the bench with no air, then reattach the line without installing it on the bellhousing so you can angle it as needed to get the air out. I've had to do all of those things at one time or another.... The very first time I did it, with nothing but the clutch pedal and patience, I think we were at it for over an hour and several cans of fluid. Some folks open the line between the master and slave and pour fluid down until it flows out the slave. I never tried that -- always sounded messy -- but some swear by that.