Oil Pan Gasket - While I'm in there...

[whalenlg]

The aluminum parts (coolant gooseneck and riser block) won't plate. The camshaft pulley may be made by powdered or sintered metal process and is not likely to plate well.

More cleaning, machine shop work and waiting for parts since the last post. New main and rod bearings arriving tomorrow (I did go with ACL as my machinist also said they were great). Should start the assembly shortly.

Re: replating. I'll post some pics later, but the folks at 4d metals in Santa Clara did like 190 fasteners/hose clamps + 20 larger parts for a very reasonable price.

As barnwerks predicted, some pieces came back unplated (water neck parts, speed sensor bracket, brake vent shields, motor mount shields)

They were all coated with gray or black dust, so it confirms they weren't good for plating (they didn't say anything when I picked it up - wrapped with paper).

I did get all the parts cleaned up, but some of the threads we nearly gone. Probably due to the acid bath followed by my wire brush cleanup. I was able to helicoil the speed sensor holes, but I was not too keen on that idea for the water neck parts. I found the used water neck parts at DC auto. The shields are just fine after cleaning.

[whalenlg]

Assembly commenced - a couple of sample pics. Smooth sailing so far.
All the crank journals and new bearings measured out in spec, so I was able to get started putting of pieces back in place.
Thanks for everyone's guidance so far!

Note that Porsche is the sole source of the main bearings and the original estimate was 4-6 weeks.

[Tom]

Is Porsche the sole source because they are undersized? I went through several boxes of Glyco main sets, but the nose bearings on all of them had a little lip where the two ends were connected together. I ended up ordering the same bearing in a PCNA box, and it was better (but still not perfect). Made me wonder if the good ones go in a Porsche box, and the so-so ones go in a Glyco box...

[whalenlg]

I didn’t find any Glyco main bearings of any size…

[Tom]

I didn’t find any Glyco main bearings of any size…

Wow that's too bad. I fear Porsche is just selling off what it has left. If anyone were still making them, you'd think they'd still be available under the mfg's brand.

[whalenlg]

Putting together the new clutch - something isn't right here...
Clutch is a Sachs KF-248-01
In the attached pics - see that the final retaining ring (2nd from the right) that goes under the circ clip is very narrow and barely cover the fingers of the pressure plate. Result is that I can pull off the throwout bearing with little effort.
Most of the online videos show 3 shims, the spring shim and a much wider, beveled retaining ring.
What am I missing?

[Tom]

I think you may not be stacking the part right. That ring doesn't ride on the fingers. From my old posts back in the day:

Start by putting the throw out bearing down as shown, then slide the flat washer on, then slide the spring washer on with the tangs pointing down as shown in this picture.

throw out orientation.jpg (60.93 KiB) Viewed 4220 times

Once the washer and spring washer are on the throw out bearing, put the pressure plate on top of the throw out bearing with the friction side up. Then push down on the pressure plate to install the retaining ring.

throw out retaining ring.jpg (61.45 KiB) Viewed 4220 times

Once the retaining clip is fully in the grove, the throw out bearing is installed. It looks like this from the other side.

throw out assembled.jpg (117.06 KiB) Viewed 4220 times

[whalenlg]

Before your post - I took apart the old clutch and it had the exact same parts.

My assumption that the thick ring went under the pressure plate was wrong. It's the retaining ring and the one I was worried about is the single shim ring.
Sorry for the interruption, but there weren't any internet references or included info with the clutch.

So as Tom says, the correct order is
bearing
shim
spring ring
pressure plate
thick retaining ring (flat side against the pressure plate
circ clip

[Tom]

Before your post - I took apart the old clutch and it had the exact same parts.

My assumption that the thick ring went under the pressure plate was wrong. It's the retaining ring and the one I was worried about is the single shim ring.
Sorry for the interruption, but there weren't any internet references or included info with the clutch.

So as Tom says, the correct order is
bearing
shim
spring ring
pressure plate
thick retaining ring (flat side against the pressure plate
circ clip

Agreed, I forgot to mention that thick washer that helps hold the circlip, seen in my last picture.

[whalenlg]

Looking forward to finishing the re-assembly this week, so looking at next steps after that...

I thought about priming the oil pump BEFORE I put the cam tower on so that I could fill most of the oil through the fill tube plus put oil in the oil filter port and spin the crank counter-clockwise (no cam, no belt, no problem, right?) to prime the oil pump.

That means I would need to torque the crank bolt with the engine on the stand, but I don't have a solution for locking the crank. I tried using the AC brace between either the rear crank bolts or the flywheel, but it won't get to any place to put a bolt.

My only options are to have someone either hold the flywheel or put a couple of M8 bolts in the flywheel with a crowbar in between. I was able to torque the flywheel with the M8 bolt method and a large screwdriver, but 155 is a long way from 65 ft lbs. Not sure that much pressure on the M8s is healthy either.

Any other ideas? Am I overthinking the priming? (Yeah - I've read a LOT of only posts that generally contradict one another).

Thanks in advance.