Oil Pan Gasket - While I'm in there...

[Tom]

Will add new pics. The bearing and crank felt smooth. Will pull the rest of the bearings tomorrow.
There was machine shop work done on the crank by the PO during the rebuild.
Looks like these rod bearings came from a Porsche lower engine set. Wasn’t planning to put these back but asking if glycos hold up ok.

Glyco is OEM and I once did a comparison between bearings in a PCNA box and those in a Glyco box, and found virtually no differences. For a mostly street car, thousands of motors say they are good enough.

Did the work order for the crank say anything about 'nitriding' or 'hardening'?

[whalenlg]

I did see your write up from 2007 - the internet never forgets
New pics attached
Handwritten notes related to head and crank items from 2002 rebuild look like:
Machine Work Head Case and Crank CA 10/10+ Rops $670
Also noted 8 valve guides, 1 intake valve, 8 rod nuts, 4 wrist pin bushings, Rod Bearing set, Main bearing set

[Black944 turbo]

Those bearings look pretty rough. I agree with everyone, measure, measure, and measure again. Glyco bearings in mine and have had no issues knock on wood.

[barnwerks]

The crankshaft does not appear to be useable as it is but photos can be misleading.
Rod bearings by ACL are worth considering. They are better suited to performance applications, like in a turbo, and are available in some incremental sizes to allow tailoring of oil clearance. Starting with a good used standard / standard crank is a viable approach.

[whalenlg]

Ok - the search is on for a good, used, measured crankshaft that just needs a polish. Any leads would be great - I'll check plyhammer, dcauto and carquip.
Just to finish the documentation, attaching 1,3 and 4 bearings and crank photos.

[whalenlg]

Getting to the end of the cleaning phase. Found a few bonus washers and nuts in the tarp it’s.

Noticed these 2 cracks inside the oil pan. Not sure what to make of them since a few that are on eBay right now have the same. They don’t go through to the outside.

Looks like the baffle has cracks I didn’t notice before as well.

[walfreyydo]

I think those are casting marks, as you can see the "crack" doesnt penetrate (where the bolt threads are). Very common on these oil pans.

[whalenlg]

I think those are casting marks, as you can see the "crack" doesnt penetrate (where the bolt threads are). Very common on these oil pans.

Thanks - looks like I’ll just need a new insert.

Also - have my reworked head and refinished flywheel back from the machine shop.

Measured the crank and all journals are within spec for a .25mm grind. Dropped it by machine shop and he confirmed it really just needs polishing. Will have it back this week.

[whalenlg]

Thanks to Tom for loaning me his water pump template so that I could drill out 2 stuck water pump studs.
viewtopic.php?t=510

FYI - I found Permatex 8064 Gasket Remover to work well in removing surfaces sealed with Loctite 574. Might take multiple applications, but eventually it all wipes off without too much effort.

Head and flywheel are back from machine shop. Crank should be back soon, so I can get started with reassembly once I remeasure the crank and order rod and main bearings.

Oil pump cleaned and resealed - anyone remember how much effort it should take to rotate out of the car using an oil pump driver?

Also - I've seen some suggest installing the cross beam and motor mounts before installing the engine. My cross member still has the rack and tie rods on it.
Anyone recommend that method or should I just wait until the engine in lifted in position and slid onto torque tube?

Here's what I am thinking on engine reassembly order - let me know if anything jumps out as out of order or missing a step:

double check all crank bearing clearances
chase block threads
main bearings & piston side of rod bearings
crankshaft
girdle & oil pickup
oil pump drive gear & front main seal into oil pump
oil pump to engine block
rod ends & bearings
oil pan
balance shafts
water pump
head
rear belt cover
cam tower & heater pipe & hose to water pump
front and back coolant ports
oil cooler hoses
right side engine mount brackets
turbo charger
left side engine mount brackets
turbo plumbing (water, oil)
alternator bracket
AOS
idle control valve
timing and balance belts
spark plugs
oil pressure sending unit
exhaust manifold
rear main seal
pilot bearing
flywheel
clutch
starter gear
bell housing
timing sensors - check gap
intake bracket
dipstick

[Tom]

Oil cooler/thermostat seals?

Here's an inspirational film you might like.