Oil Recommendation - Please don't kill me for asking

[WillyDaP]

Have used Mobil 1 for years in many of my cars along with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Synthetic ( made from natural gas ). Great luck with both and though 15-50 was used by many of my Mustang friends when I was racing a Boss 302S, I tended to go with 5-40 Shell as the formulation was done with Shell and SRT for Vipers. I honestly don't think one can go wrong with any of the top synthetics but we all have our favorites. Since I track/autocross most of my vehicles I do tend to change my oil quite frequently and I have found over the years the biggest concern seems to be that folks hesitate to change their oil as often as they should under harder usage due to their perceived notion of high cost. The cost of an engine failure , rumor has it, is quite a bit higher, ha.

[danmartinic]

I was concerned this past winter. I had 10w40 in the engine and we were getting down into the -10's at night in NY. I even drove the car on a day it was -6F when I started it. Drove 6 hours that day and had no issues.

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We also got up to 100-104F a couple times last summer... So Im really using the full range of that oil.

I also dont break 3000 miles a year, so I usually change my oil once a year... but Im considering putting 10w30 in it this fall, then back to 40 in the spring.

There is a thing about sticking to the same brand... something about additives etc

Is that evidence-based or just talk?

My issue is Liqui-Moly doesn't appear to have anything in between the 10w40 & 10w60 with Zinc--at least not readily available locally

I drive about 15k US miles a year but the season for the thick oil is only about 2 months.. the same two months that I am overseas and the car sits

And with -30 C a reality some nights in Feb... I'm kinda stuck with with the 10w40... but in the +30 for a few weeks... just waiting for the red oil pressure light to come on lol

Southern Ontario is such a lousy climate for old car oil decisions

Maybe I should finally change the original rod bearings and get that oil pressure back to up. I could also replace the original oil pan seal which is in fact slightly leaking in on corner (surprisingly VERY slightly)

But that means yet another wheel alignment and I finally had a good one done just recently

Of course, once I do all that, the engine mounts will be gone so there's another alignment

Wheel alignments are the single most frustrating cost as you can't do them yourself other than strings and sorry, been there done that and it's nowhere near good enough

Ugh... a 1988 Porsche as DD really dumb decision

[ROB III]

@spacecad3t
Love that contrast shot of a pristine looking 944 amongst the snow and ugliness of winter.

[River19]

Perfect, thanks again for the thoughts.

I will go with Hengst/Mahle for filter and will check out he taller one and assume it might need a touch more oil.

For me, I don't need to worry about winter as this car will go in a bubble like the 997 from late November to late April. There is nothing "fun" about driving a fun car in New Hampshire winters for me......but I am probably going to end up with 3-4K on the car per year as I am using it as my 3-4x golf vehicle since I can fit my bag and cart in the hatchback. Each trip to the course is 50miles round trip and I have put on about 1200 miles so far in ~a month and would anticipate 800-1200/month.

I think I will start with Mobil 1 15/50 from Wally World and change it sooner rather than later so I at least know what is in it and then in November I will do a change before I store it and maybe consider a UOA on that first batch for entertainment purposes.

These damn transaxle cars are a blast to drive on our single lane rolling and curvy state routes and country roads.....50-55mph is a sweet spot in 4th for me, the car feels great, right in the power band and the steering is light and playful, makes my silly golf trips a blast vs. driving an "appliance" in our daily SUVs, which was the entire point of buying the 924S.

[danmartinic]

For me, I don't need to worry about winter as this car will go in a bubble like the 997 from late November to late April.

Unforunately, you will find that the bubble brings other issues

Something about these cars when they sit for months at a time... suddenly all kinds of issues crop up

I suggest at least fully warming it up once a week... driving a bit on dry days even better

[River19]

For me, I don't need to worry about winter as this car will go in a bubble like the 997 from late November to late April.

Unforunately, you will find that the bubble brings other issues

Something about these cars when they sit for months at a time... suddenly all kinds of issues crop up

I suggest at least fully warming it up once a week... driving a bit on dry days even better

I understand your point and wish that was an option but it just won't work for us. During the summer my Morton Building holds the 911, the 924 and my Kubota, however in the winter the 911 goes in a bubble after a final oil change, my Ram 2500 moves in and the Kubota gets used almost 2x per week for clearing or sanding the driveway......first world problem. Chances are the 924 will head down to my parents place in MA when they head to FL for the winter and have an open garage bay, but they have had mice issues with cars there before, so another bubble is in order and I will either put it on a tender like I did with the 911 or pull the battery altogether.

I do hate the idea of seals and moving parts not getting lubed and used but.......

Many of the folks with 944/924 variants among their other P-cars have them in storage around here.

Interesting school of thought on the starting it and warming it weekly, that is literally the opposite of the recommendation for the 911........that is literally a change oil, put in storage and absolutely do not start it unless you plan to take it immediately for a long drive.

[danmartinic]

Interesting school of thought on the starting it and warming it weekly, that is literally the opposite of the recommendation for the 911........that is literally a change oil, put in storage and absolutely do not start it unless you plan to take it immediately for a long drive.

Well I am no expert and perhaps that is better..?

I just know that when my 951 sits even for a week it runs rough first day

I had a 1960 VW... all restored.. ten years just sat a lot keeping it "nice". That car didn't mind. Maybe it's an aircooled thing.. but I swore never again saving a car for the next guy

Why change the oil if it won't run? I would imagine better to change it before first start again

[River19]

Interesting school of thought on the starting it and warming it weekly, that is literally the opposite of the recommendation for the 911........that is literally a change oil, put in storage and absolutely do not start it unless you plan to take it immediately for a long drive.

Well I am no expert and perhaps that is better..?

I just know that when my 951 sits even for a week it runs rough first day

I had a 1960 VW... all restored.. ten years just sat a lot keeping it "nice". That car didn't mind. Maybe it's an aircooled thing.. but I swore never again saving a car for the next guy

Why change the oil if it won't run? I would imagine better to change it before first start again

Honestly, if it works and has worked have at it.....clearly also not an expert either. With the 911 I go with the wisdom of those with experience.

The theory, evidently with some level of data to back it up with the 997.1s ........everyone is worried about bore scoring and I believe certain cylinders don't really get a ton of oil at idle so the best way to get oil flowing is to drive immediately to get some actual revs going and oil circulating....but here's the thing, it is also recommended to keep the revs to ~3200rpm or less until the oil temp reaches ~190-200 and then you can send it as much as you want. (and honestly the manual backs this up as it says to immediately drive upon starting).

Regarding the oil change right before storing it........the separate theory with that one is to not have your lovely precious flat 6 sitting for 3-5months with dirty oil with contaminants etc. The fresh oil guards against sitting with potentially dirty funky oil. At the very least it makes us feel better lol........ That being said, after coming out of the bubble, the car fired right up and has been pretty happy ever since so I guess I will stick with that for the 911.

I believe the 2.5L 8V probably isn't as finicky. I also think part of it is the level of investment people have in 997s and the appreciation they have been going through and when people can get a little crazy with preventative voodoo. For me, with the 911 I don't put enough miles on over the summer to really go a full oil cycle anyways so I'm fine with my annual change being right before storage, the timing just works for me.

[PSU_Crash]

As for the filter, I know a lot of you guys/gals swear by the Mahle or genuine Porsche. I've run Wix filters in everything for nearly 30 years with zero issues. Plus they are available at Oreilly, so that's handy

[O875]

Part of the changing the oil before it's stored idea is that if you've used up the anti-corrosion additives then leaving the old oil on the bearings in that state isn't helping the engine. Better to store the engine with fresh additives, including the anti-corrosion ones.

Been enjoying this discussion. I'm trying to work out the best option at the moment, for a climate that sometimes exceeds 35℃. I'll probably go up to the over 35℃ range with the oil, just in case.