Oil Pan Gasket - While I'm in there...

[Tom]

Were 2 and 4 the oily plugs too? Did you check to see where the air was escaping? If not, I'd put compressed air in 2 and 4 (while the valves should be closed) and see where the air comes out. If the air comes out the oil filler with the cap removed (or dip stick tube), that would mean the rings are sealing poorly and letting air pressurize the crankcase (and letting oil in the cylinder). If it comes out the exhaust, then the exhaust valve is leaking. If it comes out the intake, then the intake valve is leaking. If it comes out the cooling system, then the head gasket is likely bad. The oily plugs/pistons are most likely either rings that aren't sealing well or, hopefully, just bad valve stem seals (or guides). Also "possible" the oil is coming from the turbo, but then you'd think all cylinders would be similarly oily....

[whalenlg]

#1 was the outlier - oiler than the others.

I’ll double check my results. 2 and 3 were a little tricky to get tdc (used my bore camera).

I’ll run those tests. How many psi?

And I’ll try to get better pics inside each cylinder at full tdc and all the way stoked down.

[whalenlg]

I did the leak down test today with similar results. Couldn't hear any air coming out - but my coolant is drained and wide open, so it could be going that direction. I felt the dipstick, tailpipe and intake port and didn't feel anything for cyl 4 at 8%.
Pics are similar - all 4 pistons look like they have a layer of oil when I bring them to tdc.
Plugs 2,3,4 have some oil on the threads but the tips are dry.
BTW - there is some oil residue in the intercooler pipes.

[Tom]

Since you are pulling the motor anyway, I'd pull the head. That way you can see the bores, clean the pistons, and have the head/valves refreshed. Absent obvious bore scoring, the oil is 'probably' coming down the valves.

[whalenlg]

1 week later...
Radiator, alternator, all hoses, harness connections, exhaust is out. Control arms disconnected.
Didn't break any bolts or studs taking out exhaust.
Just need to pull the AC to the side and remove motor mount bolts before dropping the cross beam with rack and control arms and then the motor.

[Tom]

1 week later...
Radiator, alternator, all hoses, harness connections, exhaust is out. Control arms disconnected.
Didn't break any bolts or studs taking out exhaust.
Just need to pull the AC to the side and remove motor mount bolts before dropping the cross beam with rack and control arms and then the motor.

Good work -- post some pictures!

[whalenlg]

Most of the pics are reminders about how things looked before removing. But here are a couple - one is before engine removal. 2nd is my 4 year old/4k mile caster block. I was a little surprised to see the wear on this one. Maybe the 17" wheels?
One of my local 911 friends offered to come by to check on the work this morning and offer moral support. He ended up under the car helping take out the mid section of the exhaust. Quite helpful!

[whalenlg]

Everything is pretty much prepped to drop the engine. Just need another inch or two clearance.

[Tom]

If you lower the back of the car, you can point the car upward a bit, adding a few more inches at the front. You can also put the jack stands on top of a wood platform.

[whalenlg]

Ok - now we have the magical 25" in the front (raised back 1.5" and front the height of the pavers).