I don’t have a new harness. I am waiting on the Maxxecu harness to be completed which could be awhile. The KLR will get swapped soon and I will be taking you up on your generous offer to check out my existing one. Unfortunately I am running out of time to do much as winter is on our doorstep so the car will be put into storage in a week or 2.
Idle AFR has been 14.7-15.4 the last 6 weeks or so, part throttle mid 14’s and WOT 11.7. Prior to that it was more like 14.2-14.7 idle, low 14’s part throttle and 11.2 WOT. I know that isn't a big difference but a difference nonetheless. Today I was seeing 14.7 - 15.4 idle, 12.8 - high 13’s part throttle off boost and 10.8 WOT.
The car has always ran slightly rich under all conditions (14.2-14.7 idle, low 14’s cruising, 11.2 WOT).
I have the original plastic MAF tube that came with the Mtune and know that they are prone to cracks and leaks so I am suspicious about that. Either way, am going to purchase the LR metal replacement as that may solve some existing issues or prevent future ones.
I have been curious about fuel pressure and have an AFPR that needs to get installed. That won’t get done until spring.
Hard Boost run issues
- Tom
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Are the harnesses not available or is it more that you haven't been able to order one yet? Given all the talk about those ecu's last year, I just assumed the harnesses were readily available?
Happy to look at your KLR and even try it in my car anytime. PM or email when ready. No winter shut-down here.
I'm not sure what to make of all those AFR numbers/changes. The KLR was in play when the ignition acted up, but is an unlikely cause of inconsistent AFR's like that. I'd check your fuel pressure to start.... If it's an M-tune issue, fixing it might be tough given the lack of support/josh. Vitesse is still going strong, if you were interested in switching over. That would be much more turn-key (i.e., easy) than a new stand-alone. Although, given your issues, I think you'd be well served to get a Kroon harness in addition to the VR MAF system. Easy for me to spend your money though. 
Happy to look at your KLR and even try it in my car anytime. PM or email when ready. No winter shut-down here.
Okay.
I think I may have a leaky injector causing my hard cold starting and rich running condition. I replaced the fuel pump and filter and that seemed to help the hard starting issue a little.
The reason I suspect the leaky injector is I can also smell fuel in the garage after the car sits for a few hours or overnight.
I believe it also could have caused the ignition loss I spoke about in the op.
Car is going to bed tomorrow but I believe I have figured out the issue.
I think I may have a leaky injector causing my hard cold starting and rich running condition. I replaced the fuel pump and filter and that seemed to help the hard starting issue a little.
The reason I suspect the leaky injector is I can also smell fuel in the garage after the car sits for a few hours or overnight.
I believe it also could have caused the ignition loss I spoke about in the op.
Car is going to bed tomorrow but I believe I have figured out the issue.
- Tom
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Is the gas smell the only reason you think you have a leaking injector? Lots of things can cause gas smells....?Fejjj951 wrote: Sat Nov 20, 2021 5:06 pm Okay.
I think I may have a leaky injector causing my hard cold starting and rich running condition. I replaced the fuel pump and filter and that seemed to help the hard starting issue a little.
The reason I suspect the leaky injector is I can also smell fuel in the garage after the car sits for a few hours or overnight.
I believe it also could have caused the ignition loss I spoke about in the op.
Car is going to bed tomorrow but I believe I have figured out the issue.
- Tom
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If the fuel smell is under the hood, I'd take a long hard look at everything for signs of external leaks before cracking anything open -- fuel lines, fuel rail, injector o-rings, etc. Also check the vacuum line to the FPR for signs of fuel -- a bad FPR can fill that line with fuel and cause running problems. If the source of the fuel smell isn't clear, then check the sender cover in the rear hatch area and the filler neck -- both known to seep fuel and create a fuel smell. The evaporations system can also cause fuel smells. I always think of external leaks first when there is a raw fuel smell.
Have you checked your DME temp sensor -- the one with the blue Bosch (JPT) connector at the front of the head? If it's incorrectly telling the DME that the motor is -20F degrees, it would be hard to start and run rich and idle like a pig. Do you have the ability to log data with that DME? That could prove very useful....
Have you checked your DME temp sensor -- the one with the blue Bosch (JPT) connector at the front of the head? If it's incorrectly telling the DME that the motor is -20F degrees, it would be hard to start and run rich and idle like a pig. Do you have the ability to log data with that DME? That could prove very useful....
