Dimmer Switch - burning up/smoking
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Forester12
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Fuse 38 is good. My license plate, clock and glove box all work. Did you see my PM? 12.1 volts coming to dimmer switch connector then after I start the car it jumps to 13.6 volts. Would the 1.5 volt jump cause the melting/burning? If so, why would that even be happening?
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Tom
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Sorry, missed your PM. Be aware that just because the dimmer melted, the problem may not (probably doesn't) have to do with the dimmer per se. The dimmer is just one component in a circuit that may have more resistance than the dimmer can handle. If you figure out why the dash lights don't work, you'll likely solve the dimmer issue. Since the clock, etc., work, I'd be inclined to disconnect the instrument cluster edge connectors and see if the other dash lights start working. If so, then you can start looking closely at the cluster for the root issue.
When the car is turned off, the voltage you are reading is whatever is stored in the battery. Car batteries typically read 12.6 at their terminals if everything is good, but 12.1v at the dimmer probably just shows some resistance through the wiring, etc. Check at the battery to be sure. Once you turn on the car, the alternator starts charging, and typically charges somewhere in the high 13 to low 14 volt range. In other words, the voltage jump you saw is perfectly normal and just means your charging system is working fine.
When the car is turned off, the voltage you are reading is whatever is stored in the battery. Car batteries typically read 12.6 at their terminals if everything is good, but 12.1v at the dimmer probably just shows some resistance through the wiring, etc. Check at the battery to be sure. Once you turn on the car, the alternator starts charging, and typically charges somewhere in the high 13 to low 14 volt range. In other words, the voltage jump you saw is perfectly normal and just means your charging system is working fine.