Oil dripping from under turbo compressor housing

[Cruise98]

The o-ring on the turbo oil supply line is more likely to be seeping as it is under pressure. The drain side is a large cavity and is under less pressure.

I agree with Tom, you need a new exhaust "donut". It seems like a funky way to do it, but my theory is it allows more expansion/contraction of that joint.

[NCGermerican]

Changed turbo a few months ago to a 27/6 hybrid from Evergreen. Currently mid -oil pan job, noticed an oil drip from the bottom of the compressor housing, on the backside where the retaining bolts are. Initially thought I had either not seated the turbo on the o-ring correctly or one of the mounting bolts had backed out and loosened. But I just pulled the turbo and o-ring is intact, doesn’t appear like it was kinked on install. Bolts were tight. Feed line on top the turbo is dry.

I had the exact same experience as you. I was horrified after going through all that work and thinking that I had a leak from either the inlet o-ring or possibly a leak from the turbo itself. After getting a better look underneath by removing the alternator vent tubing, I noticed that the oil was coming from the bottom of the J-Boot, where it meets the turbo inlet.

Basically, with the larger Evergreen turbo inlet, you need to purchase the larger diameter J-boot from Lindsey Racing. Since the larger J-boot is now too large for the turbo inlet, you need to use a slightly smaller coupler first, then place the LR j-boot over it. However, this makes it extremely difficult to confirm a tight seal after tightening down the hose clamp. I thought mine was sealed up, but there was a definite opening on the bottom, allowing oil to run from the j-boot down the bottom of the turbo (and letting unmetered air in).

I hope this makes sense. It may not be your isue, but it's something to think about. My remedy is to install the Nissan alternator, which due to it's smaller overall size, should free up some room for the larger J-boot and allow me to fit my hand underneath to ensure a tight seal from the J-boot to the turbo.

[onspeed]

Interesting. J boot appears to be well secured right now, if it appears to be leaking again I'll look into it.

Just curious when are you seeing full boost in 3rd or 4th gear with the Evergreen turbo?

[NCGermerican]

Interesting. J boot appears to be well secured right now, if it appears to be leaking again I'll look into it.

Just curious when are you seeing full boost in 3rd or 4th gear with the Evergreen turbo?

I wish I could tell you. I installed the EG Raptor X in the fall and blew a head gasket w/in 2 weeks. After I installed the rebuilt head, I installed the Vitesse Stealth MAF kit. I had some issues with that as well but once I finally got the car to idle, it was shipped to Virginia for a full respray.

However, in the few weeks before the HG blew, I wasn't seeing full boost until well after 3K RPMs. Charlie said that wasn't right and it should be BEFORE 3K. I was running a LR manual boost controller and he told me to get rid of that and just go with spring pressure, so I will be installing 1.1 bar springs in my Tial dual-port and will just have it the top port vent to atmosphere. Charlie said "it's better to let your foot determine the boost".

I should have the car back from paint this month and then will start on the alternator and rear main seal leak so it has some more time on jack stands coming.