Thanks, so yes I did find the relay…
And I do have a chime when the key is left in the ignition….
Is the next step to just change the relay?
924s stereo wiring
Before I spent the money on a relay (no longer available new if you have a power sunroof) I would check a couple of things. I would make a short jumper with quarter inch uninsulated disconnects on each end.* Start by putting one end in where terminal 15 of the relay goes and measure the other end to ground to make sure the signal is getting to the relay from the ignition switch. The terminals should be marked on the bottom of the relay. If that works, move the jumper so it connects where terminal 1 and terminal 30 of the relay goes. This connects power directly to the red/blue wire so power should be present at the radio end. If one or the other of these doesn't work, the problem is in the wiring somewhere. If these tests work, it is time to get a new relay.
*You should have two of these jumpers and instructions on how to bypass the alarm, if it has one, carried in the car anyway in case the alarm box fails.
*You should have two of these jumpers and instructions on how to bypass the alarm, if it has one, carried in the car anyway in case the alarm box fails.
Options are buying used and hoping for the best. Very rarely, a new old stock one pops up for sale somewhere. Again, test for voltage on radio/sunroof relay socket pin 15 when the key is in, and if so I'd jumper 1 to 30 and see if it powers the red/blue wire at the radio. This will tell you if you need a new relay.
So I was under the steering wheel today finally.
Sunroof radio relay:
1) jumper on position 15 with ignition turned (on) shows 12 V
2) Jumper from 30 to 1 and then testing red blue cord shows 12 V with or without ignition on.
So seems like relay is the offender here.
Since NLA has anyone ever repaired one of these? Or does anyone know somewhere to source one ( my searches have not found any used parts)?
Sunroof radio relay:
1) jumper on position 15 with ignition turned (on) shows 12 V
2) Jumper from 30 to 1 and then testing red blue cord shows 12 V with or without ignition on.
So seems like relay is the offender here.
Since NLA has anyone ever repaired one of these? Or does anyone know somewhere to source one ( my searches have not found any used parts)?
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Another thought, make sure pin 31 of the relay socket actually goes to ground. It's needed for the relay coil to work. You could stick a 4 pin relay (not 5 pin) in the socket to see if you get power to the red/blue wire with the key in.
With 4 pin relay : full 12V voltage to red/blue wire (12.6V, battery post trickle charged)
I ended up getting a used relay as well.
On both the relays when the key is put in the car the red/blue gets around 10-19mV. I heard it was to be low but I’m not sure really how low voltage should be.
I’m not sure where to go from here.
I ended up getting a used relay as well.
On both the relays when the key is put in the car the red/blue gets around 10-19mV. I heard it was to be low but I’m not sure really how low voltage should be.
I’m not sure where to go from here.
That is a bit of a mystery for sure. Inside the radio/sunroof relay on those 4 pins is a standard relay, plus some stuff for the sunroof part.
Next, with one of the radio/sunroof relays installed and ignition on, I want you to measure the voltage on the red with black stripe wire (pin R) and the brown wire (pin31) by probing into the back side of the relay socket.
Next, with one of the radio/sunroof relays installed and ignition on, I want you to measure the voltage on the red with black stripe wire (pin R) and the brown wire (pin31) by probing into the back side of the relay socket.