What's Inside: Door Lock & Latch

[blueline]

after letting it soak in berrymans and scrubbing a couple times:



I ended up just tossing the toothbrush i was using to scrub this thing because it was just black and greasy…

Quite the difference! Nice job. (Gotta feel satisfied about that.)

[notny41]

Riveting the broken spot weld might work. As long as there is clearance between the back side of the rivet and the glass as it moves up and down, you'll probably be fine. Make certain the other spot weld is still intact, though. Whatever stress caused the first spot weld to fail has been handled exclusively by the second spot weld. If there's room to rivet the other spot weld, too, that's a good idea.

Or find a buddy with a 110V MIG welder, flux core is just fine. It needs a couple zaps and it's good for another couple decades.

Did you weld yours back in place? I think i’m going to drill and tap and use a short screw on the inner part as it is easy to access. I guess I will just leave the outer side for now.

inner side:

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outer side:

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[notny41]

This part being loose in there is probably why I would hear a clunk when the window reached the very top and the force/current limiter would stop the window.

[notny41]

we’ll see if there is room under the door panel for this screw head:

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[usury]

Did you weld yours back in place? I think i’m going to drill and tap and use a short screw on the inner part as it is easy to access. I guess I will just leave the outer side for now.

I prepped and re-welded that tab on both doors. I talked about it a little bit in This Post

If you go the screw route, you will need the screw to also go through the inner door steel.

[notny41]

Yes, I left it long enough to do that hopefully. LOL If not, I'll cut another screw down and leave it a little longer.

[notny41]

dang after seeing that video I consider myself lucky that the side welded to the outside on mine broke too or I would have had that telltale crack. I did end up having to use a longer screw and luckily it does not touch the window as it goes up and down, but now when I close the door I can hear a squeaky rattle. I’m guessing mine has been in this condition for so long that the regulator mechanism started to warp a little due to the weight of the glass. I’ll have to see if that little rattle goes away after time but it is very annoying. Fix one thing, uncover another thing…. on a positive note, my door latch works much better now!

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[whalenlg]

Just as an fyi - I had removed and installed the door handles a couple of times with the glass in place. Really struggled to reconnect the plastic bits.
After a respray I had to reinstall the door handles and was not excited about the likelihood of scratching new paint, so I removed the interior door panel and glass and it was way easier.
I would only recommend this method. It seems like more work but it’s faster and less prone to damaging the paint.

[Seagrams]

got the door panel off and discovered the same thing on my aft window channel. at first i saw the hole in the door and thought i was missing a screw there or something.


Here’s the little hole (you can see the little silver piece hiding back there behind the hole):

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and here’s what it looks like more from the top of the door:


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I wonder if a person could drill it out and pop-rivet it back into place?

Is that little hole by chance what causes a rattle when the window is partially down? I've been trying to chase that rattle forever, but have no idea what's causing it.

[usury]

That's a good place to start. If you find a hole there, it means the spot weld holding the tab that itself holds the aft window channel has failed. I bet clunking or rattling is an indicator. For me, it was a tiny amount of wind noise when the window was all the way up, but that would go away when the window switch was blipped ever so slightly in the down direction