Ran out of gas warming it up in the garage, next day gas in- no start!

[marius_gf]

Hi Tom! I agree with you. I did not have time to talk and understand. I will have them make sure the timing is right, the belt might have slipped? The belt is there and looks ok. I will ask if the car actually starts or not. If the belt was off I am thinking bent valves, hence the no compression. I did see white smoke when it ran before...Thank you for the info on where to do the head.

Yeah, definitely follow up and post here if you need a sounding board on what they say. I can't think of anything but a snapped timing belt that might explain a car dying suddenly and then having zero compression. Even then you'd likely have some form of backfires and sputters since fuel and spark would still be in the same ballpark. Something's not adding up with that story, proceed with caution....

Hi Tom! Just spoke with the shop. They checked timing and all markers are aligned, belt is good... So only cylinder 1 has 50 psi, the rest 0. I will bring it home and pull the head to see what is going on...
Thank you

[Tom]

Hi Tom! I agree with you. I did not have time to talk and understand. I will have them make sure the timing is right, the belt might have slipped? The belt is there and looks ok. I will ask if the car actually starts or not. If the belt was off I am thinking bent valves, hence the no compression. I did see white smoke when it ran before...Thank you for the info on where to do the head.

Yeah, definitely follow up and post here if you need a sounding board on what they say. I can't think of anything but a snapped timing belt that might explain a car dying suddenly and then having zero compression. Even then you'd likely have some form of backfires and sputters since fuel and spark would still be in the same ballpark. Something's not adding up with that story, proceed with caution....

Hi Tom! Just spoke with the shop. They checked timing and all markers are aligned, belt is good... So only cylinder 1 has 50 psi, the rest 0. I will bring it home and pull the head to see what is going on...
Thank you

You might have them do a 'leak down' test while they have it -- that will help pinpoint where the compression is being lost.... but if there are right about the compression, then you need to dig in one way or another. Sorry about that.

[marius_gf]

Yeah, definitely follow up and post here if you need a sounding board on what they say. I can't think of anything but a snapped timing belt that might explain a car dying suddenly and then having zero compression. Even then you'd likely have some form of backfires and sputters since fuel and spark would still be in the same ballpark. Something's not adding up with that story, proceed with caution....

Hi Tom! Just spoke with the shop. They checked timing and all markers are aligned, belt is good... So only cylinder 1 has 50 psi, the rest 0. I will bring it home and pull the head to see what is going on...
Thank you

You might have them do a 'leak down' test while they have it -- that will help pinpoint where the compression is being lost.... but if there are right about the compression, then you need to dig in one way or another. Sorry about that.

Hi Tom, I will tow it back on Monday and start removing the head and take it to the place you told me. I must have screwed up something since I replaced the head gasket 2 months ago plus a broken valve...

[marius_gf]

Yeah, definitely follow up and post here if you need a sounding board on what they say. I can't think of anything but a snapped timing belt that might explain a car dying suddenly and then having zero compression. Even then you'd likely have some form of backfires and sputters since fuel and spark would still be in the same ballpark. Something's not adding up with that story, proceed with caution....

Hi Tom! Just spoke with the shop. They checked timing and all markers are aligned, belt is good... So only cylinder 1 has 50 psi, the rest 0. I will bring it home and pull the head to see what is going on...
Thank you

You might have them do a 'leak down' test while they have it -- that will help pinpoint where the compression is being lost.... but if there are right about the compression, then you need to dig in one way or another. Sorry about that.

Hi Tom, the machinist checked the head and told me he would have no problem using it, after a clean. So second stud on the exhaust side was loose- I unscrewed it with my fingers...The rest seem ok. The top ones look om vs. the ones on the exhaust side , which are darker. When unscrewing the loose stud, I noticed fitting/ plumbing tape. I recall the om studs should be glued/Loctite. The loose stud thread looks great and I could slowly torque to 50FT in 2 steps to check the engine block thread. My question is should I Loctite this stud only and move forward or remove the 4 on the exhaust side- as a precaution. Or should I remove all 8 and replace? What would you do? Thank you

[Tom]

Maybe take some pictures of the studs/block and post here. I don't use locktite on them -- just thread them down until they are 72mm above the deck. Someone's had it apart before if you had plumbers tape on the threads of that stud. Getting the old studs out can be a real pain, but if you can get them out, I'd probably replace all 10 of them with new studs from the dealer (they are surprisingly cheap, and very high quality) -- you can replace them all for less than it costs to fill up the gas tank. Using pipe dope on threads is recommended by one of the aftermarket stud companies (Raceware) but it sounds like someone used that trick on a factory stud. The question is why someone replaced one stud? That alone would push me toward replacing them all -- just to see what's going on in there and to eliminate question marks....