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A while ago, the sheathing on my cruise control cable cracked open. Since I literally never use the cruise control, I decided I must change the cable. I just didn't want a broken thing staring at me every time I opened the hood. I was able to buy a new cable from the dealer for what seemed a reasonable price, and it's been sitting around waiting for just the right time to install. Today was that time, since I'm in the middle of changing the engine harness and had maybe 10% more access to the cable under the hood. Here's the basic process.
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Above: I ended up taking the driver seat out so I could lay on my back and get better access to the cable. It's still awful access that wants to dislocate your shoulder, but I never could have done it with the seat in place. The arrow points to the end of the cruise control cable. It attaches to the linkage with a rubber plug that is pushed over a pin on the linkage. There are no fasteners, just a very tight rubber grip on the pin. Step one is to get the bushing off the pin. Some claim they can pull it off by hand, but unless you have pneumatic fingers, that was a virtual impossibility on my car.
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Above: Better shot of the rubber busing on the pin. Note that the pin has a pointed head that's a bigger diameter than the pin itself, so the rubber bushing can't slip off. That pin head makes it a real challenge to remove and install the rubber bushing.
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Above: I ended up getting these pry tools and used a combination of them to work the rubber bushing off the linkage pin. It was still a pain, but at least possible.
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Above: Photographic proof that it is possible to separate the cable from the linkage pin, despite how it might seem while you are under there.
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Above: Once the cable is separated from the linkage inside the cabin, you just need to pull the grommet out of the firewall to remove the whole cable assembly. There is one little trick to this. Start by pulling the white (maybe green) plastic piece out of the grommet. That will allow the grommet to squish enough to pry out with a screwdriver or nylon pry tool. With the plastic piece still in the grommet, it won't come out of the firewall (ask me how I know). I was able to pop the grommet out with a screwdriver once the plastic part was pulled out. Installing the new cable is the reverse of removal, as they say. Start by feeding the end of the cable into the hole in the firewall and be sure to put the new cable under the brake lines, just like the original. Then put the bushing on the linkage pin under the dash. I used soapy water on the rubber bushing in order to get it over the pin, and was able to do that by hand (without tools). It was an epic pain though. Once the cable was attached to the linkage inside, I put the grommet in the firewall after soaping it up a bit. I found it easier to push on the grommet while standing on the passenger side. Once the grommet is all seated, you can then push the white (or green) plastic part into the grommet and call it job done!
The only real pain is getting the rubber connector off the peg on the pedal, and realizing you need to pull that white thing out of the grommet to get the grommet in and out of the firewall. The other thing I discovered after the fact is that the clamp that holds it to the top of the intake manifold does not fit the new cable. The new cable is skinnier, so I just got a smaller cushion clamp at the hardware store, which seemed a lot easier than trying to come up with a porsche part number to fit the skinny cable.
For context IDK how to get around this. The cone on the end will NOT come off...I don't want to damage my brand new cable...Thinking I need to modify the bracket.
I'd take a rotary tool (Dremel) with a cutting disc and carefully remove the cone.
I've had do that on a couple of electrical connectors that I couldn't de-pin successfully before replacing with new ones.
So here is mine. I did have to take the cone off and put it back on. It's super tight as you know, but is made out of a nylon that flexes enough to pull it off with enough strength/leverage. It just pushes on and off, no threads, but has has to stretch/expand to snap on and off. If memory serves, I just used plyers to pry it off and put it back on. Also looks like you might be able to create a make shift press with the nut to force it off the end. Or the nut can be used to brace a trim removal tool like the one below. However, you do it, no bracket modification is needed....
Gaspowered wrote: Fri Feb 28, 2025 8:12 am
Mine doesn't have that cone piece.
I'd take a rotary tool (Dremel) with a cutting disc and carefully remove the cone.
I've had do that on a couple of electrical connectors that I couldn't de-pin successfully before replacing with new ones.
Cheers
Yours is the original design with the nylon lining inside the end. The nylon prevents the cable from rubbing on the metal and fraying. I'd have to check, but seem to recall the cone replaces (or at least supplements) the internal nylon lining, to keep the cable centered and not rubbing on anything but nylon.
Tom wrote: Fri Feb 28, 2025 9:27 am
Yours is the original design with the nylon lining inside the end. The nylon prevents the cable from rubbing on the metal and fraying. I'd have to check, but seem to recall the cone replaces (or at least supplements) the internal nylon lining, to keep the cable centered and not rubbing on anything but nylon.
I just didn't want a broken thing staring at me every time I opened the hood. I was able to buy a new cable from the dealer for what seemed a reasonable price, and it's been sitting around waiting for just the right time to install. Today was that time, since I'm in the middle of changing the engine harness and had maybe 10% more access to the cable under the hood. Here's the basic process. 
