It's been 13 years since the car was on track, and yesterday was a shakedown day with the new 3l 16V. I bought it in 2010, with a 2.8 8v turbo. It blew a head gasket and scored a cylinder in late 2011. After a fiasco trying to find the parts I wanted to rebuild it, I decided to do an engine swap. Too much time fighting engine swap issues brought me full circle, back to a Porsche engine, now with a decade more experience, and the tools do do essentially whatever I want.
The new engine is:
S2 Donor
Molnar Rods, ACL Bearings
Calico Coated Gylco Mains
14mm Head Studs
Wossner Pistons, Dished to 9:1
1mm Oversize Intake Valves, GSC Guides
Stock S2 Cams
S2 Header, Flanges Replaced with V Bands
Custom Crossover
Custom Intake Manifold, 75mm Throttle
TPC GT Spec Turbo (Billet GT35 Compressor, TD06H Turbine, 12cm housing)
Syvecs S6 ECU
The injectors were carried over from the previous engine, and ended up undersized for this engine. This time around it made 430whp at 13psi. Over winter, I'll replace the fuel rail, injectors, print a new timing gear cover that covers the bolt, add a fuel surge tank, and spend time sorting out chassis things. For now, I'm happy to just get to drive the car.
Another 16V Turbo
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- blueline
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Nice! The setup looks quite impressive to my relatively untrained eyes - I imagine it will be a hard runner. How much break-in is required and when will you put it back on track?
By the way, the car looks great too.
By the way, the car looks great too.
Tim
Current:
'26 911 Carrera S - PTS Verde British Racing Green
'24 Cayenne S - Algarve Blue Metallic
'21 718 Cayman GTS - Black
'22 911 Turbo S - Carmine Red
'21 718 Cayman GT4 - White
'11 GMC 1500 Quad Cab 4x4 - Black
Musik-Stadt Region
Current:
'26 911 Carrera S - PTS Verde British Racing Green
'24 Cayenne S - Algarve Blue Metallic
'21 718 Cayman GTS - Black
'22 911 Turbo S - Carmine Red
'21 718 Cayman GT4 - White
'11 GMC 1500 Quad Cab 4x4 - Black
Musik-Stadt Region
Break in was done on the dyno. It really doesn't take long to seat the rings - you can watch torque increase, and the blow-by disappear.
I tracked at Rocky Mountain Motorsport Park yesterday. The chassis still needs lots of sorting, and I lent my front swaybar to someone so it handled a little funny, but I just wanted to give the car a good shakedown. I have two more around the end of the month, one at Rad Torque and one at Strawberry Creek, both in central Alberta. I need to fix a small oil leak, bleed the brakes again, re align, put the sway bar back in before then. The rest can happen over winter. which will be here sooner than I'd like.
I tracked at Rocky Mountain Motorsport Park yesterday. The chassis still needs lots of sorting, and I lent my front swaybar to someone so it handled a little funny, but I just wanted to give the car a good shakedown. I have two more around the end of the month, one at Rad Torque and one at Strawberry Creek, both in central Alberta. I need to fix a small oil leak, bleed the brakes again, re align, put the sway bar back in before then. The rest can happen over winter. which will be here sooner than I'd like.
- Tom
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Looks great! Love the Wiggins style clamp. Maybe add boost braces to the others. What deck plate is that? Why the 3D printed cam gear housing? Anyway to straighten out the I/c pipe paths a bit?
I'll add braces if I have an issue with them coming off, but so far no issues. There's no good way to straighten them, and they're pretty short now.Tom wrote: Wed Sep 11, 2024 7:34 am Looks great! Love the Wiggins style clamp. Maybe add boost braces to the others. What deck plate is that? Why the 3D printed cam gear housing? Anyway to straighten out the I/c pipe paths a bit?
I got the engine running last year, but the oil flow control valve for the head failed, the cam seized, and shattered the gear and housing. All the old magnesium parts are warped and corroded, I don't need a distributor, so I decided to make a new one. I didn't leave enough clearance for the bolt, so I'll print a new front half over winter. I may add some cosmetic ribbing or something too, if I feel fancy that day.
I made the deck plate from a pricey piece of low expansion aluminum to get as close to alusil as I could. I have some revisions I would make if I ever make another, but I mostly want to get time and use on this to prove my take on the concept work reliably.
- Tom
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Congrats on getting it running and back on the track after all that! What filament are you using under the hood for the 3D printed parts?
Nylon-6 with carbon fiber reinforcement. I've used PC in the past on customer projects, and it holds up well too, but I think my next big project will be an intake manifold for an NA 2.8 16v so nylon will be the best bet.Tom wrote: Wed Sep 11, 2024 9:45 am Congrats on getting it running and back on the track after all that! What filament are you using under the hood for the 3D printed parts?
- Tom
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TC72 wrote: Wed Sep 11, 2024 9:54 amNylon-6 with carbon fiber reinforcement. I've used PC in the past on customer projects, and it holds up well too, but I think my next big project will be an intake manifold for an NA 2.8 16v so nylon will be the best bet.Tom wrote: Wed Sep 11, 2024 9:45 am Congrats on getting it running and back on the track after all that! What filament are you using under the hood for the 3D printed parts?
I've had good luck with ABS under the hood, as long as I'm careful about where to use it (i.e., away from exhaust parts). Nylon 6 with CF, like PA6-CF from Polymaker, is good to over 400F, so I'm sure you're right about it holding up. A heat shield between the turbo and intake wouldn't hurt though. Really rooting for success. If ever inclined, please post your STL's here
I've formed a heat shield similar to the one over the manifold on the exhaust side, and teh one between the up p ipe and block(I don't think they are captured in the pictures), tacking a pair of nuts to the turbine housing to secure it is on the list of houskeeping items.Tom wrote: Wed Sep 11, 2024 10:02 amTC72 wrote: Wed Sep 11, 2024 9:54 amNylon-6 with carbon fiber reinforcement. I've used PC in the past on customer projects, and it holds up well too, but I think my next big project will be an intake manifold for an NA 2.8 16v so nylon will be the best bet.Tom wrote: Wed Sep 11, 2024 9:45 am Congrats on getting it running and back on the track after all that! What filament are you using under the hood for the 3D printed parts?
I've had good luck with ABS under the hood, as long as I'm careful about where to use it (i.e., away from exhaust parts). Nylon 6 with CF, like PA6-CF from Polymaker, is good to over 400F, so I'm sure you're right about it holding up. A heat shield between the turbo and intake wouldn't hurt though. Really rooting for success. If ever inclined, please post your STL's here![]()
Updates to the cam housing will be adding a bump for the bolt, some cosmetic items, and for myself I am going to add a spot to mount a K20 cam sensor on the front. I spent a lot of time to make sure the OEM cam sensor fit at exactly the right distance, and was lucky enough to have a bad sensor out of the box! So the change to a K20 sensor and a longer stud in place of one of the three distributor rotor bolts will provide a new phase sensor signal.
Once I'm happy with the fitment, I'll gladly share the STL or print them for people who don't have easy access to a printer.
