Greddy EBC Install

[BigRatchet]

I have some concerns after having a shop install my Greddy Profec Spec 2 EBC. Looking over the vacuum diagram after the install I noticed that the shop followed the diagram (A) from Greddy over the Diagram from (B) Lindsey Racing for folks running dual port/MBC. Which one should’ve been followed, because currently the “boost control” line is being T’d off into the FPR and my concern is that fuel is being regulated twice…

(A)

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(B)

IMG_1986.jpeg (850.27 KiB) Viewed 1034 times

[Tom]

Not sure what you mean by regulating the fuel twice, but if it is working as advertised then I think you are good to go. It's usually painfully obvious when a boost controller isn't set up properly. Hard to comment without seeing exactly how yours is set up now, and knowing what wastegate you have. The LR diagram does not include a boost controller, so it doesn't really apply to your situation. In general, T'ing off the FPR line is a pretty standard way of picking up manifold pressure for things like boost controllers, gauges, map sensors, etc. So that fact alone wouldn't worry me. Note, for example, that even the factory essentially T's off that line to supply manifold pressure to the KLR (as shown in LR's diagram).

[Doyle623]

Are you using a dual port wastegate?

[BigRatchet]

Are you using a dual port wastegate?

I have a Tial 38, the spring is .8 bar

[BigRatchet]

Not sure what you mean by regulating the fuel twice, but if it is working as advertised then I think you are good to go. It's usually painfully obvious when a boost controller isn't set up properly. Hard to comment without seeing exactly how yours is set up now, and knowing what wastegate you have. The LR diagram does not include a boost controller, so it doesn't really apply to your situation. In general, T'ing off the FPR line is a pretty standard way of picking up manifold pressure for things like boost controllers, gauges, map sensors, etc. So that fact alone wouldn't worry me. Note, for example, that even the factory essentially T's off that line to supply manifold pressure to the KLR (as shown in LR's diagram).

Maybe my issues are elsewhere in the setup, currently it only reads that the peak boost is 2 psi.. which on a pull it definitely feels more than that. I have a tial 38 at .8 bar so I should at least be reading at stock boost at the minimum, I guess that's why I assumed there was a vacuum line not in the right place.

[Tom]

Not sure what you mean by regulating the fuel twice, but if it is working as advertised then I think you are good to go. It's usually painfully obvious when a boost controller isn't set up properly. Hard to comment without seeing exactly how yours is set up now, and knowing what wastegate you have. The LR diagram does not include a boost controller, so it doesn't really apply to your situation. In general, T'ing off the FPR line is a pretty standard way of picking up manifold pressure for things like boost controllers, gauges, map sensors, etc. So that fact alone wouldn't worry me. Note, for example, that even the factory essentially T's off that line to supply manifold pressure to the KLR (as shown in LR's diagram).

Maybe my issues are elsewhere in the setup, currently it only reads that the peak boost is 2 psi.. which on a pull it definitely feels more than that. I have a tial 38 at .8 bar so I should at least be reading at stock boost at the minimum, I guess that's why I assumed there was a vacuum line not in the right place.

Hmmm... what does your boost gauge say when you floor it? 2psi is not much past the middle 1 line...

[BigRatchet]

Not sure what you mean by regulating the fuel twice, but if it is working as advertised then I think you are good to go. It's usually painfully obvious when a boost controller isn't set up properly. Hard to comment without seeing exactly how yours is set up now, and knowing what wastegate you have. The LR diagram does not include a boost controller, so it doesn't really apply to your situation. In general, T'ing off the FPR line is a pretty standard way of picking up manifold pressure for things like boost controllers, gauges, map sensors, etc. So that fact alone wouldn't worry me. Note, for example, that even the factory essentially T's off that line to supply manifold pressure to the KLR (as shown in LR's diagram).

Maybe my issues are elsewhere in the setup, currently it only reads that the peak boost is 2 psi.. which on a pull it definitely feels more than that. I have a tial 38 at .8 bar so I should at least be reading at stock boost at the minimum, I guess that's why I assumed there was a vacuum line not in the right place.

Hmmm... what does your boost gauge say when you floor it? 2psi is not much past the middle 1 line...

The factory gauge shows a little less than 2 bar and the greddy shows 2 psi. I originally thought something was wrong when I saw the shop run the T'd line from the top port of the tial was routed to the J boot. Which on the diagram that is the old line from the CV. I removed the line, closed it with a spare bolt and routed the top port line to the banjo bolt in the intake. Still received the same result...

[Tom]

Are you sure the Greddy is showing 2psi? The display (and programming, and set up) of that Spec 2 has confounded people since the day it came out. The original Profec was much simpler and easier to use, but its documentation was equally incoherent. On mine, the dip-switch settings that finally worked are not even one of the patterns listed in the manual...

The Spec 2 defaults to a Kilopascal (KPa) reading, which is a metric alternative to PSI. To make it more confusing, it defaults to KPa/100. So, if you see 2 for boost, check to see if that is really a KPa reading trying to indicate 200Kpa. 200KPa is about 29psi absolute, or about 14.5psi, which would match the dash gauge pretty closely. There is a way to display PSI, but for reasons only clear in the head of some out-of-touch Japanese engineer, it displays PSI as 100 times the actual PSI, meaning 14.5psi will read as 145. Read all about it in the manual here:

http://www.greddy.com/upload/file/PRofec_Bspec2.pdf

I can't tell from your description how the (dual port?) wastegate is plumbed, but that's also a topic that has messed people up for decades. If you post exactly what it plumbed where, we can help with that. My vote would be to start with a manual controller to get it all dialed in, and chances are you'll feel no need for the Profec Spec 2 and all its quirks....

[BigRatchet]

Are you sure the Greddy is showing 2psi? The display (and programming, and set up) of that Spec 2 has confounded people since the day it came out. The original Profec was much simpler and easier to use, but its documentation was equally incoherent. On mine, the dip-switch settings that finally worked are not even one of the patterns listed in the manual...

The Spec 2 defaults to a Kilopascal (KPa) reading, which is a metric alternative to PSI. To make it more confusing, it defaults to KPa/100. So, if you see 2 for boost, check to see if that is really a KPa reading trying to indicate 200Kpa. 200KPa is about 29psi absolute, or about 14.5psi, which would match the dash gauge pretty closely. There is a way to display PSI, but for reasons only clear in the head of some out-of-touch Japanese engineer, it displays PSI as 100 times the actual PSI, meaning 14.5psi will read as 145. Read all about it in the manual here:

http://www.greddy.com/upload/file/PRofec_Bspec2.pdf

I can't tell from your description how the (dual port?) wastegate is plumbed, but that's also a topic that has messed people up for decades. If you post exactly what it plumbed where, we can help with that. My vote would be to start with a manual controller to get it all dialed in, and chances are you'll feel no need for the Profec Spec 2 and all its quirks....

I was able to change the metric to PSI but still shows in that 2 PSI range ( I am at a stand still but the last pull I did was that 2.8)

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As for how it’s plumed the top port is plumbed into the Tri-Tee

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One Tee end goes to the solenoid, then from the solenoid it loops back to the side port of the wastegate

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The other Tee end goes to the intake

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Now the controller this is where I’m confused. There’s a Tee in between the FPR.

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One of the ends goes to the controller

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And that’s where I am at with it now. Buying a MBC is not a bad idea I wonder if I’d be able to test it in place of the solenoid.