Engine noise after front seal change

[Tom]

Does the tach bounce when you crank the motor? If not, check speed and ref sensor connectors for frayed wires.

Have you tried a spare DME relay?

Have you confirmed that you have spark?

Try rattling the injector wires while cranking. A short in one connector will stop ALL from working.

[Redmonds944]

Does the tach bounce when you crank the motor? If not, check speed and ref sensor connectors for frayed wires.

Have you tried a spare DME relay?

Have you confirmed that you have spark?

Try rattling the injector wires while cranking. A short in one connector will stop ALL from working.

Can’t say I saw the tacho bounce but then again I wasn’t looking. The sensors were all in good condition when I pulled the torque tube of earlier in the year and it’s run fine since.
I don’t have a spare DME relay but have opened it up but can’t feel/hear any movement inside.
Spark is there on cylinder 1 and is a strong spark.
I did give everything electrical a little wiggle hoping for a response but nothing happens.

I don’t think it’s the pump but tomorrow I’ll strap 12v on it and see what happens.

[Tom]

Does the tach bounce when you crank the motor? If not, check speed and ref sensor connectors for frayed wires.

Have you tried a spare DME relay?

Have you confirmed that you have spark?

Try rattling the injector wires while cranking. A short in one connector will stop ALL from working.

Can’t say I saw the tacho bounce but then again I wasn’t looking. The sensors were all in good condition when I pulled the torque tube of earlier in the year and it’s run fine since.
I don’t have a spare DME relay but have opened it up but can’t feel/hear any movement inside.
Spark is there on cylinder 1 and is a strong spark.
I did give everything electrical a little wiggle hoping for a response but nothing happens.

I don’t think it’s the pump but tomorrow I’ll strap 12v on it and see what happens.

You can check for fuel pressure at the rail too. If you have pressure and no fuel in the cylinders, then the injectors are not firing for some reason. Harness connectors are known to fray and cause that, and that often happens after doing work that jostles the harness. You can also jumper the relay to see if that's the issue, especially if you are not getting any fuel pressure. Can't really think of anything that would explain a bad engine noise and then sudden loss of fuel pressure though -- unless the noise was a screaming fuel pump going out? Mine sounded awful when it went out.

[ROB III]

Does the tach bounce when you crank the motor? If not, check speed and ref sensor connectors for frayed wires.

Have you tried a spare DME relay?

Have you confirmed that you have spark?

Try rattling the injector wires while cranking. A short in one connector will stop ALL from working.

Can’t say I saw the tacho bounce but then again I wasn’t looking. The sensors were all in good condition when I pulled the torque tube of earlier in the year and it’s run fine since.
I don’t have a spare DME relay but have opened it up but can’t feel/hear any movement inside.
Spark is there on cylinder 1 and is a strong spark.
I did give everything electrical a little wiggle hoping for a response but nothing happens.

I don’t think it’s the pump but tomorrow I’ll strap 12v on it and see what happens.

You can check for fuel pressure at the rail too. If you have pressure and no fuel in the cylinders, then the injectors are not firing for some reason. Harness connectors are known to fray and cause that, and that often happens after doing work that jostles the harness. You can also jumper the relay to see if that's the issue, especially if you are not getting any fuel pressure. Can't really think of anything that would explain a bad engine noise and then sudden loss of fuel pressure though -- unless the noise was a screaming fuel pump going out? Mine sounded awful when it went out.

Tom, you may have hit the critical item. Rob, in post #3 of this thread you'd stated "It seems to come from the rear of the car........"
If you meant the rear of the engine, then ignore my comments, but if you truly meant the rear of the car, the fuel pump is at the back and I've read about older fuel pumps screaming when they go south, and Tom has comment on loud noises in the past. Depending on how long your car sat before you started to revitalize it, sediment or other foreign material might have been in the tank and by running the engine, they may have been moved to the fuel pump/filter location. BUT, if the loud high pitch noise is in the engine compartment, then I would be less inclinded to think its the pump. Just a thought............

[Redmonds944]

Final update (hopefully)

I’ve gone out to the car this morning with the intention of finding out why it doesn’t start and with a freshly printed 3D jig to set the cambelt.
First I tried to start the car, I turned the key and couldn’t hear the fuel pump prime or run and as yesterday it turned over but didn’t start. I then moved on to the cambelt jig and took the rotory cover off and set the cambelt as per instructions, once set put the rotory arm&cover back together. I then remembered reading that the injectors were connected to a plug on the bulkhead. I opened the plug, wiggled a wire brush in there and sprayed it with electrical clean and put it back together. I then turned the keyand she fired up straight away.

I still had the deathly rattle so I turned the engine off got on my back and loosened the balance shaft belt a little, then I notice it, the alternator was moving easily. I started the engine and the rattle was still then so I got back on my back and there it was, the alternator bouncing about and hitting the sump making the horrible noise.
So with the alternator secured the noise has completely disappeared, so I’m now happy with where I am with the belts and timing setup.

My only concern now is what was stopping it start previously as other than random checks I’ve not seen anything that suggests it was a problem.